KDXRIDER.NET

Well....now I'm TICKED!!

So last week I talk to the folks at

http://www.procycle.us that's PROCYCLE

On their website they have a brake/tail combo that says it fits the KDX. The sales rep was a nice guy, he tells me "Yes, it's a direct fit for the KDX." So I order it with a hydraulic brake light switch and a led bulb.

You know what happens next.....it gets here and the stupid brake/tail light IS NOT a direct fit. It is about 1 inch smaller in each direction.....nice.

After spending 20 minutes on the phone with them measuring, explaining, etc..so that they are more educated about the products they sell....they decide they will not help me out on the return shipping

So thanks PROCYCLE....now I'm one week behind on my project and out $7 because of your mistake....PROCYCLE.


OK guys, so here is what I'm after. Is it possible to remove the 1156 light socket the stock tail light assembly, install an 1157 socket, put an LED 1157 brake/tail bulb in there and then wire it to a hydraulic brake switch? That way I have a stock looking tail/brake light.

Thanks!

I had my doubts about

He wrote:...all I need to do is follow the wiring instructions and I'll have a functioning "stock" tail/brake light.

Anyway....


Re: 'Is it possible to remove the 1156 light socket the stock tail light assembly, install an 1157 socket, put an LED 1157 brake/tail bulb in there and then wire it to a hydraulic brake switch? That way I have a stock looking tail/brake light.'

Sure. Why wouldn't it be? I mean..nothing strange is being asked to be done.


But...the fact that the question is asked gives me pause.

If you need to know, 'How do I put the 1157 socket in?'...there is not 'an' answer to that question. Put it in however suits you. If you're thinking swapping sockets will be as easy as changing a bulb..it won't be. You will need to do some soldering..run some new wires (to the brake switch)such. But, not a big deal.


I'm curious about this: '..the stupid brake/tail light IS NOT a direct fit..'

They sent an assembly that included the lamp/socket/lense/base that was supposed to directly bolt into the KDX fender?

I suppose you could say, no matter what SIZE it was, that it is indeed a 'direct' fit. It would fit 'directly' onto the fender.

Anyway, the answer to your question is, 'Yes.'

p.s.

How's your head now?

The sales person led me to believe it would fit right up and look stock....like it was a product made specifically for my bike...which it wasn't.

Anyways...I can handle the soldering part, I'm just not sure about the wiring part. I'd hate to hook a wire up wrong and mess something up. I know I've got 7 wires to work with:

the 2 that go to the stock 1156 socket
the 3 that will come out of the new 1157 socket
and the 2 coming from the switch

Any "plain english" instructions on how to hook them up would be awesome..thanks

Your having asked for 'plain english' I take to mean you don't want instructions from me..........

I guess mine isn't good, or plain enough?

You could try this:


DEUX choix :

L'à deux fils à la douille actuelle : Chaud et fonder.

L'à trois fils au 1157 : DEUX chaud (la queue et le frein) et le sol (la douille lui-même).

A deux fils sur le commutateur : Un guzinta (entre dans) et un guzouta (a changé à guzinto avec la pression appliquée).

1. Connecter l'exister chaud au filament/avance de feu arrière ET à un des fils de commutateur. Télégraphier le sol de douille (le corps de douille) au fil de sol actuel. Connecter l'autre fil de commutateur au filament/avance de frein.

Vous êtes fait. Avec la partie télégraphiant. Installer le commutateur de frein. Garder présent à l'esprit un des fils au commutateur de frein auront chaud tout le temps, le fil changé aura chaud quand le commutateur est activé.

Isoler/la protection/protège comme exigé.

Il ne serait pas une idée terrible de fusionner les fils allant au commutateur de frein.. si vous pourriez ajuster un fusible de mini-lame sous la lentille.. que je suis sûr que vous pouvez.



Je changerais plutôt le sol comme opposé à la commutation de pouvoir.

Dans lequel reconnaît :

2. Connecter le fil chaud à l'avance de douille. Connecter le fil actuel de sol de vélo au filament/avance de feu arrière. Connecter le filament/mene à de frein un des fils de commutateur. Connecter l'autre commutateur mene à un bon sol.

Comme ça.. le fil au commutateur de frein n'est pas CHAUD tout le temps.. il traverse un filament. S'il les short hors, la seule chose qui arrivera est votre lumière de frein sera sur tout le temps.

Aucun besoin pour un fusible, vraiment.




If that makes your head hurt TOO bad...you might at least TRY 'my' English version:


TWO choices:


The two wires to the existing socket: Hot and ground.

The three wires to the 1157: TWO hots (tail and brake) and ground (the socket itself).

Two wires on the switch: A guzinta (goes into) and a guzouta (switched to guzinto with pressure applied).

1. Connect the existing hot to the taillight filament/lead AND to one of the switch wires. Wire the socket ground (the socket body) to the existing ground wire. Connect the other switch wire to the brake filament/lead.

You're done. With the wiring part. Install the brake switch. Keep in mind one of the wires TO the brake switch is going to be HOT all the time, the switched wire is going to be HOT when the switch is activated.

Insulate/shield/protect as required.

It wouldn't be a terrible idea to fuse the wires going to the brake switch..if you could fit a mini blade fuse under the lens..which I'm sure you could.



I'd rather switch the ground as opposed to switching power.

In which case:

2. Connect the hot wire to the socket lead. Connect the existing bike ground wire to the taillight filament/lead. Connect the brake filament/lead to one of the switch wires. Connect the other switch lead to a good ground.

That way..the wire to the brake switch is NOT HOT all the time..it's going through a filament. If it shorts out, the only thing that will happen is your brake light will be on all the time.

No need for a fuse, really.

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