KDXRIDER.NET

zepplin153 wrote:

terminatr wrote:Does the studs need to be removed before sending to Langcourt? If so, how do I remove them?

I just bought a standard size Wisco 220 piston. After I get the cylinder back from Langcourt, can I still use this Wisco piston?

What instruction do I need to give Langcourt?

Langcourts' price list:

Single cylinder replate & diamond hone (aluminum or cast iron) $174.95
Single cylinder bore, plate & diamond hone (aluminum or cast iron) $209.95
Single cylinder weld bore damage (aluminum only), replate & diamond hone $229.95
Single cylinder repair detonation, replate & diamond hone (aluminum only) $249.95
Single cylinder rebuild damaged skirt, replate & diamond hone (aluminum only) $249.95

I believe "Single cylinder bore, plate & diamond hone (aluminum or cast iron) $209.95"
Because you want to remove any imperfections and then re-plate. Plus that seems about right on price. you can anticipate another $50 in shipping.

My cylinder looked much worse than his when I sent it off to Langcourt and it didn't need a bore.
They can lay on the plating pretty thick if they need to so unless you have deep gouges it will probably only be $175.

Also, you can ship it there in a $10 flat rate box and they shipped it back for $22 plus $3 for $300 of insurance.

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By the way, the connecting rod seems loose on the crank shaft. Now that the cylinder is off, I can move the rod
from side-to-side a lot. Front-to-back and up-and-down feels pretty tight, though. Is the side-to-side looseness
bad bottom end? Please say this is normal.

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terminatr wrote:***************************************************************************************************************
By the way, the connecting rod seems loose on the crank shaft. Now that the cylinder is off, I can move the rod
from side-to-side a lot. Front-to-back and up-and-down feels pretty tight, though. Is the side-to-side looseness
bad bottom end? Please say this is normal.

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Side to side is fine, up and down is bad. It sounds like the rod bearing is fine.

...

While I'm waiting for the cylinder to come back from Langcourt, is there anything I should do about the bottom end? Should I try to crack it open and replace all the seals and all the bearing while the cylinder is off and I got nothing better to do? Eventhough I don't see any exterior sign of leakage or anything. But the bike is 12 years old and has been abused by previous owners.

Thanks!

if you got the tools and time then why not?

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terminatr wrote:While I'm waiting for the cylinder to come back from Langcourt, is there anything I should do about the bottom end? Should I try to crack it open and replace all the seals and all the bearing while the cylinder is off and I got nothing better to do? Eventhough I don't see any exterior sign of leakage or anything. But the bike is 12 years old and has been abused by previous owners.

Thanks!

If there were no issues I wouldn't. If the bearings feel tight with no slop in the crank, there were no leaks, and everything shifts fine, you will just be spending money and time when you don't really have to.
If you crack it open, you are spending a minimum of $45 on new bearings and seals. And unless you have a case splitter available you will be buying/making one which is extra time and money.
I split mine because of a faint gas smell in the tranny oil and I honestly should have just left it alone. If i wouldn't have split the cases I would be riding right now.

Plug: seal it with a med high temp thread lock. just make it tight. Its a drain and i don't think its under any kind of ridiculous pressure.
Gaskets: no adhesive if its a metal type. Just make sure to evenly tighten and torque to specs.

I think we should all write in large green print...It sure is easy to read, especially those of us with gray beards and bald heads

If you are concerned that there is too much slop in the top end, there is probably too much slop. Did you measure ring end gap, or piston to cylinder wall clearance?

No I don't have such precise instrumentations at my disposal. But I sent both the cylinder and new Wisco piston to Langcourt. I assume they really know what they are doing.

When I was taking the old piston out, I noticed there was a lot of slop also. Maybe that's how it's suppose
to be. To allow room for expansion?

There is some small amount of clearance, yes. If you sent the piston with the cylinder, you should have nothing to worry about.

The standard clearance is .0031" to .0035", .079-.089 mm. You should be able to check this with feeler gauges. A .003 feeler should fit between the piston and cylinder wall. A .004 feeler should be quite tight or not fit at all. Also, you will need feeler gauges to check your ring gaps. The standard gap is .006" to .014", .15 - .35 mm for both rings.