KDXRIDER.NET

pumpguy wrote:Can you tell us the length of wire and the number of turns you used?

I am sorry, but I can not tell you that information - I did not keep track! I do know that I over-wound it, though, and the part of the flywheel that will hit is not the outside, as you might expect. It is the small hub section, with the key way cut in it that will contact the coils first. I had to remove at least 1 full layer, and re-solder the end.
I started off with a 300' spool of 18 ga, and I did not even use half of it. I think that I was only able to fit 3 full layers on the core. I was as neat as I could be, but I was in a hurry, so the last bit or traverse did not lay as nicely as I would have liked. When I was done, it worked very well - so I am led to believe that the whole process is not very critical, as long as you are not super sloppy when you start wrapping. I believe that you could even wrap it in a dumbell shape, and leave clearance in the middle - to clear the flywheel hub - and it would still work just fine, maybe even better. My hands were sore when I was done. I just clamped a screwdriver in a vise, and speared the arbor hole of the spool to pay it off. Then I just tensioned the wire with my hand (wrapped the wire around my fingers?) as I wrapped it on.
I am very happy with the results, but the real test will be when I try a 55/60 watt headlight. Right now, I have one of those 35/35 watt "Blue" bulbs from Rocky Mountain ATV. It works pretty good as is, but for actual night time street use, I really want a 55/60 bulb.

Thanks for the reply. That is just the info I was looking for. I haven't removed my flywheel yet. Do you think there is enough metal in the hub to machine some off to clear the oversize coil?

Sounds like the ability to fit two slightly smaller lighting coils is just the ticket.

pumpguy wrote:Thanks for the reply. That is just the info I was looking for. I haven't removed my flywheel yet. Do you think there is enough metal in the hub to machine some off to clear the oversize coil?

That is a tough question. I didn't look *really* closely at it, but I do know that there is not a whole lot of metal above the top (bottom?) of the key way. You wouldn't want your flywheel to split in half....

Yeah, you're probably right. Thanks again for posting the details.

gregp wrote:

pumpguy wrote:Can you tell us the length of wire and the number of turns you used?

I started off with a 300' spool of 18 ga, and I did not even use half of it. I think that I was only able to fit 3 full layers on the core.

sooooo erm, what you gonna do with the rest of that coil
(rewinding the stator is on my to do list)

diymirage wrote: sooooo erm, what you gonna do with the rest of that coil
(rewinding the stator is on my to do list)

Seeing that this is such a friendly and helpful forum, and you are the first to ask - just send me your name and address - at: gplassmann@yahoo.com, and I will send the rest of the spool to you - free of charge.


Greg

gregp wrote:

diymirage wrote: sooooo erm, what you gonna do with the rest of that coil
(rewinding the stator is on my to do list)

Seeing that this is such a friendly and helpful forum, and you are the first to ask - just send me your name and address - at: gplassmann@yahoo.com, and I will send the rest of the spool to you - free of charge.


Greg

awesome

email sent

since we're on the topic, how did you get the directionals to work ?
i have mine hooked up (all by myself) and i could never get the blinking part to work
(ive tried both the regular AND the LED specific flashers and always blamed it on the AC system)

Just so people know, the SR models have 2 lighting coils...

diymirage wrote:
since we're on the topic, how did you get the directionals to work ?
i have mine hooked up (all by myself) and i could never get the blinking part to work
(ive tried both the regular AND the LED specific flashers and always blamed it on the AC system)

?? Hmm. I just used a common electronic flasher from Baja Designs, and they worked first try. I also have one of their regulator/recitifiers, though, so that may have something to do with it. FWIW - My front directionals are LED type, and my rear directionals are regular incandescent type.

gregp wrote:...regulator/recitifiers...

Right there is the answer. A rectifier converts AC current to DC current. Flashers units only work with DC.

SS109 wrote:

gregp wrote:...regulator/recitifiers...

Right there is the answer. A rectifier converts AC current to DC current. Flashers units only work with DC.

so true

i actually had a rectifier on the KDX for a whole 2 minutes
i guess what it does (correct me if im wrong) is convert AC into DC by only allowing waves on way
so in short, it stops half of the waves, effectively turning the 35 watts AC current into 17.5 watts of DC current

i installed it to run my indicators but the power dropped so low that if i hit the brakes the headlight would dim so far it was practically out

BUT with a rewound stator who knows what my option would be

I would suggest re-winding the lighting coil, and then seeing what works, before you go buying a new regulator/rectifier. I actually bought my 2004 KDX200 with a VA street title 2 years ago, for $1200, and most of the Baja designs components already installed on it. It was very hacked up, though, and I had to strip everything off and start over. There was a large, homemade battery box under the left side panel (with no battery in it), and when I discovered that, I decided to remove it and try to get everything to work without a battery - figuring that a stock KDX has none, so i should be able to power a few more things. I was half right.
Now, everything works great with no battery.

I'm thinking about getting an aftermarket rewound lighting coil and I can't help but think how nifty it would be if I could use both lighting coils. Maybe rewind my origonal when I have time and add it to the aftermarket one. Hmmm...

kyledsmith87 wrote:Just so people know, the SR models have 2 lighting coils...

Bringing this thread back from the dead. Does anyone have more info on this?

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