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Posted: 05:02 pm Sep 13 2011
by SCREAM
I'll probably go with Langcourt since I've always heard good things about them.

Posted: 10:36 am Sep 14 2011
by fuzzy
Good choice. It's $180, and well worth that extra over what's likely at least $100 to sleeve it. Don't score it, and it will last MANY pistons, which on the KDX is generally thousands and thousands of miles.

Posted: 10:39 am Sep 14 2011
by SCREAM
What do you mean by "Don't score it"?

Posted: 11:06 am Sep 14 2011
by Julien D
Don't leave a top end in there so long that it goes to hell and trashes the bore ;).

Posted: 12:53 pm Sep 14 2011
by SCREAM
Ah, understood.

Posted: 04:51 pm Sep 14 2011
by novack2007
well compression on mine is 100psi. so off come the jug and take a look. found a place 25 min drive for me can do it for 200 bucks to replate the cylinder.

Posted: 11:24 am Sep 15 2011
by Fletch
make sure they size it to whatever piston you buy for it. That 's important. Also make sure they deburr the ports, CV-tech did a really good job of this and it's important so you don't snag a ring. I would recommend a wiseco although your bike will have to be warmed up before you go belting on it. Not a bad practice no matter what you put in.
Also the cylinder should have no pin holes in the plating when you get it back. If they say it's for holding oil call bs on that one and have them re-do it.
Good Luck

Posted: 04:41 pm Sep 15 2011
by novack2007
ok next question. can some one point me in the direction on how much can i shave off the head to raise the compression and still run pump 93 gas without running race fuel?

Posted: 06:54 am Sep 16 2011
by gregp
I would leave that to an experienced tuner. Shaving a head can involve very critical work. Just send it to Ron Black for his head mod. For the same money, you may have a hard time finding someone to simply shave the head.
JMO.

Posted: 08:05 am Sep 16 2011
by fuzzy
You don't really shave the head on a 2-cycle like you may do a little on a 4-stroke. It's all in the squish band area of the head, and is profiled in on a lathe. RB has the pump gas to the max profile all figured out.

Posted: 09:11 am Sep 16 2011
by novack2007
can anyone give me some more info on this guy? maybe ill just clamp the head and take a file and true up the surface again. atleast that will take alittle off not much to make it flat again if its warped.

Posted: 09:49 am Sep 16 2011
by Julien D
More info on Ron Black?

Check the RB mods section on this site. All the info you could want is there.

http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewforum.php?f=110

Posted: 01:47 pm Sep 16 2011
by KarlP

Posted: 05:35 pm Sep 18 2011
by novack2007
ok so i got 2 work on the bike 2day. took cylinder off and the plating is gone on the intake side and the whole power valve system is toast. i need a cylinder anyone know someone that has a good used one with a good power valve setup in it or a place too get good price on a fully loaded new cylinder?

Posted: 07:29 pm Sep 18 2011
by Fletch
That's pretty normal. Don't sweat it too much. Send the cylinder off. I bet you have a crack in it just under the exhaust port running down. Again no biggie. I also bet the center powervalve is fine and so is the metal shaft with the gears cut into it. I would bet that your 2 side valves are pooched but the idler on the right side is ok. Did you support the vertical shaft actuator when you loosened the left hand thread nut on top of it? Hope so. I've heard that Honda parts has the cheapest price on powervalves for the e-series. So look there.
If you have any of the parts I listed as probably ok that arn't then let me know as I have spares. I also have a spare junk cylinder for replating but you don't need 2 of those.
Hey, at least you know what you got eh?

Posted: 07:49 am Sep 19 2011
by Julien D
cheapcycleparts has the cheapest subvalves right now, as far as I know. Like $38 each.

Posted: 10:20 am Sep 19 2011
by novack2007
fletch- would u have a cylinder that has a good powervalve set up in it that u would wanna sell?

Posted: 01:19 pm Sep 19 2011
by Fletch
No I have most of it, the rod, idler, r-hand valve, but the l-hand one is pooched. My cylinder is pretty bad but probably re-buildable. I'm not sure if you need any of that stuff. show us some pics of your powervalves.

Posted: 06:47 pm Sep 19 2011
by novack2007
<a href="http://s911.photobucket.com/albums/ac31 ... icture.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac31 ... icture.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>

<a href="http://s911.photobucket.com/albums/ac31 ... cture3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac31 ... cture3.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>

<a href="http://s911.photobucket.com/albums/ac31 ... cture2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac31 ... cture2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>

<a href="http://s911.photobucket.com/albums/ac31 ... cture1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac31 ... cture1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>

so there it is. fubar just fubar.[/img]

Posted: 06:50 pm Sep 19 2011
by novack2007
ok so i cant get the hold of posting pics yet.