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Posted: 08:21 am Apr 23 2011
by dfeckel
As long as your clutch cover gasket is not ripped, I'd just install it again. I've had my clutch cover off with the reused gasket probably a dozen times, and it doesn't leak.
Posted: 08:39 am Apr 23 2011
by billyp10980
I actually took out the old gasket last season because it was torn up and used the old reliable form- a- gasket. Of course I never ordered a new gasket to eventually replace it with so now that's what I will do.
Posted: 11:25 pm May 02 2011
by billyp10980
Ok more problems. I installed the dyna ring but It seems that I just can't get enough clutch cable to re attach it no matter how much I adjust it. The cable is also starting to fray on one end so of course I had to order a new one. Is it always such a tight fit for the clutch cable once the dyna ring is in? Is there an easy way to re attach the cable? Mine all of a sudden just doesn't seem long enough. Where would I have gone wrong? I followed all the steps.
Posted: 08:35 am May 03 2011
by dfeckel
I usually disassemble the clutch lever from the perch to easily disconnect and reconnect my clutch cable. The other trick is to connect the cable to the clutch arm while the clutch cover is OFF, and then bolt it back on with the cable connected.
Posted: 08:48 am May 03 2011
by billyp10980
Thanks. Ill give it another try. I took the cable off both the clutch arm and clutch lever at the handle bar before assembly. Its seems now even if I get it back on it will be way to tight.
Im finding that when I do these projects Im having to replace some parts in order for them to work. The bike is is great shape but certain areas that need regular maintenance or service haven't been done for a long time.
I ordered a new clutch cable anyway because the old one is starting to fray.
I just hope it's not that tight when I put the new clutch cable on. I'm ready to test this thing!
Posted: 07:33 pm May 04 2011
by dfeckel
You can always remove the washer under the clutch push rod if you can't get things adjusted right with the cable alone. Any reason to think your steel plates might not have the larger diameter machined down surface? My first set weren't machined properly, so the edge of the machining interfered with the fibers, resulting in a stack that was too thick to overcome with the cable. There are some pics in one of the Dyna Ring threads that shows the correct steel plates versus the incorrect. Make sure yours are the right ones.
Posted: 08:45 am May 07 2011
by billyp10980
Finally! New clutch cable on no problem. I tried a quick run. Can't wait to next weeks hare scramble to really test it out. So far so good. The clutch adjusts nicely right at the cable adjustment. Once its adjusted correctly there is no stalling. Does anyone still use the clutch while shifting at all or do you shift without it?
Posted: 08:53 am May 07 2011
by Tedh98
I haven't used the clutch since installing it.
Posted: 08:54 am May 07 2011
by Tedh98
Good deal on getting it working.
I haven't used the clutch since installing it.
Posted: 08:57 am May 07 2011
by billyp10980
I tried it a bit without the clutch. I guess you can do both. It really will be weird not using the clutch at all. I tested it on a small hill. Really cool how you can stop in gear then just take off again. The real test will be a hare scramble run.
Posted: 11:37 am May 07 2011
by SS109
I hardly ever used the clutch before I installed mine and even less afterward!
Glad you got it sorted out.

Posted: 05:06 pm May 22 2011
by billyp10980
Ok here is a quick review:
I did one hare scramble and ran the dyna ring with 3 springs provided. Didn't like it as it slipped way to much. It didn't have any snap and never felt right. Responded better going through tight stuff in lower gear. Didn't do well in higher gears going up hill, felt like it had no hit at all. I never did stall though and only went down twice in 2 hours. Just slipped to much and not enough hit. Clutch got to hot also.
Part 2 of that is I took the clutch apart again and went to 2 spings. Had to readjust the clutch cable which sucked. It took me hours to get it right. For awhile I had it where I would pull the clutch the bike would lurch forward and stall when I put it in 1st. Drove me crazy! It seemed like the clutch was working backwards. So finally today after constantly adjusting the cable I think I got it. The bike rips now. The clutch grabs nice, doesn't stall and feels strong. Shifting is a bit tight, I put in some ATF type F trans fluid. I think it's going to turn out to be a nice purchase. Last night and this morning I was ready to trash it. LOL!
Now all are need are some nice muddy hills to test it out on. I was hopping some logs with it for awhile and rowing through the gears on the street and woods by my house. I also like the fact I still can feather the clutch to up the RPM's some. I might have to fine tune it a bit, but I'm not sure you can ever get it perfect. I don't want to adjust the cable to much, I'm afraid to be right back where I was last night. LOl!
Posted: 12:32 pm Jun 23 2011
by billyp10980
Ok I'm back with more. I removed one spring and went down to two. Definetly a difference in hit when giving it throttle. Responds right away like a normal clutch. The dyna ring responded much better during a long trail ride this time. It seems like it likes the lower gears much better. When you ride in higher gear it gets that snowmobile type whirl to it. On a couple spots in open areas in about 4th gear it seems to slip a little bit. Climbing hills worked great and no stalling is a big plus. Its hard to find the perfect clutch cable adjustment but overall it seems to work very well.