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ubareddition wrote:Which one is the counter sproket?

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Let me see if I can clarify.
The crank shaft drives the clutch hub.
The clutch hub transfers that motion to the transmission shaft. The gears transfer that motion to the counter shaft. The sprocket is on the end of the counter shaft, and the counter shaft sprocket drives the chain that drives the rear wheel.

So yes, I believe you have the right location for that bushing. Were you able to see the fiche on the link I put above?

"Good job, guys. "

Ok I checked on mine. That "collar" does go on the output/counter shaft, but it goes into the left case half from the outside and sits inside the seal that's outside of the bearing.
In other words, the bushing should not be on the shaft when you pull your cases together.
I haven't quite figured out the 2 o rings though..

"Good job, guys. "

Friedom wrote:

ubareddition wrote:Which one is the counter sproket?

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Let me see if I can clarify.
The crank shaft drives the clutch hub.
The clutch hub transfers that motion to the transmission shaft. The gears transfer that motion to the counter shaft. The sprocket is on the end of the counter shaft, and the counter shaft sprocket drives the chain that drives the rear wheel.

So yes, I believe you have the right location for that bushing. Were you able to see the fiche on the link I put above?

"Good job, guys. "

No the link would not open. Eror 404

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That collar gets put in after the cases are together if I remember correctly. You can see it here, part #92143

http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/ ... ansmission

Dekon wrote:That collar gets put in after the cases are together if I remember correctly. You can see it here, part #92143

http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/ ... ansmission

Nice, that's a better link. So how are the two o rings arranged?

"Good job, guys. "

So I got the case pressed together. I didn't heat the cases. I just used the dry ice and it worked like a charm.

Honestly I think I could have done it without the dry ice if I had that sleeve in the right place. Unfortunately for me my little mistake cost me more than the crack. I've taken a little time to calm myself cause it's just so frustrating. I found this on the back of the output shaft.





At this point I've come too far and invested too much time and money to look for another case. Maybe in the future I'll look into getting a newer bottom end for this bike. But right now I think I'm just gonna clean the surfaces really good and jb weld that piece back on and see what happens. I know it's not the right way. I know it's prob not gonna work. But I gotta get this thing put back together. I'm getting too frustrated with it fighting me. I just need to rude it for a little bit then maybe during the heart of winter I'll rip it apart again and find a donor motor to rebuild learning from my mistakes and experiences here.

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Man it sure looks like you lucked out on that one! It's a very reinforced non-mating surface. Do as you like, but I would probably not even JB that piece back on - it would just be potentially something that could piece off and get in the gears/bearings. Look how much material is there for the whole width of the bore! I think you'll be fine.

"Good job, guys. "

Here's my patch job







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Should work great! I did a JB job today too, but in a very mission uncritical spot.

"Good job, guys. "

So you guys really think that spot is not that structurally important? Cause if so I'll feel a lot better.

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I think the inner edge of the extrusion isn't. I'd be more concerned about whether the case was warped by the torsional forces that were put on it (enough to pull out the crank a foot away). But if it all pulled together and lined up - hey it's a dirtbike. They're tough.

"Good job, guys. "

So this thing is turning into a nightmare. I think I have to split the case again because I cannot shift out of neutral. I'm Going to try to upload the videohttps://vimeo.com/183246583

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That's fun.
I haven't put one together yet, so I really can only guess. Is there some alignment that needs done when putting the forks/ fork pins back in?

"Good job, guys. "

Yeah basically you put the drum the gears and the 2 dowels with the forks and hope everything stays in place and lines up when you press the case together.

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Huh.. are you able to test the shifting with the left case off? I remember reading about one guy who didn't install the left main bearings at first so he could easily do a test fit to ensure shifting.

"Good job, guys. "

I tested the shifting before putting the cases together. And it worked fine. But now it does not.

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Is your shift lever rod bent?
I'm trying to think of what changes for the transmission components when the cases close.

"Good job, guys. "

It was. I fixed it.

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Are you able to turn the shift star further with the shift lever disconnected? Maybe you can isolate where the resistance is.

"Good job, guys. "

No the shift star does not turn any further with the shift lever off. The resistance is coming from inside the case.

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