KDXRIDER.NET

I read a few write ups and one suggested the tool that I am using and seemed to go together really easy for him. I'm using the cyclepedia manual but it's kinda vague.

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Can you put the case halves together without the crank in at all?

"Good job, guys. "

Friedom wrote:Dry ice sounds like a great idea for the whole crank. Are there and marks inside either case half to indicate something was binding/pushing back/not properly aligning?

"Good job, guys. "

No I looked very closely for any signs of binding or misalignment but found nothing.

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Friedom wrote:Can you put the case halves together without the crank in at all?

"Good job, guys. "

I see where your going with that. I'll give that a try tomorrow.

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You've probably seen this guy's website, but he shows his case mating procedure on his KDX hybrid engine build. He does a lot of other mods too, but the case mating process is the same.

https://haroldbawlzangya.com/kdx-220-hy ... ine-build/

Yup, good info. SS109 did a writeup here on KDX Rider also.
I now have the frame he used, and am hoping for the bottom end..

"Good job, guys. "

Gotcha... I missed your earlier question. Yes, I used heat on the case halves and froze my bearings and crank. The halves mated together without any force.

My GasGas manual specified heating cases to 180 degrees F. I wouldn't hesitate to do the same with my KDX.

I followed rbates's sticky at the top of the page and had no issues. I think his is a h series and mine is an e series, but the procedure is basically the same. I did like others suggested and put the cases in an oven and the crank and bearings in the freezer. First I dropped the frozen bearings in the cases. Put the cases back in the oven to heat back up, then dropped the crank into the right side case. I used a Tusk crank puller, and it will not work on pulling the crank into the right case, so that was my logic to heat up the right case again and drop the crank into it.

Thanks for this useful information.

Would you know what temperature you took the cases up to?

pumpguy wrote:Thanks for this useful information.

Would you know what temperature you took the cases up to?

Like TheGriz said for his Gas Gas, 180. Just make sure your oven thermostat is accurate. To hot and you'll melt the crank seals.

Can someone confirm for me that the little sleeve that I have on the out put shaft is not supposed to be there?











Because without that sleeve that I thought went there the cases go together no problem. And unfortunately I can't find the pics I took of disassembly.

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Looks like it belongs.
Part no. 92143

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q ... 1175550008

"Good job, guys. "

That does point toward the stress of that crack developing around the CS area. I think you found your problem. Is the bushing flanged or distorted? How about that bore on the inside on the left case?

"Good job, guys. "

It doesn't show it in the cyclepedia manual

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Does that shaft go on the outside of the case? As a spacer between the seal and the sproket? I'm fairly certain it doesn't go on the inside. It does fit on that shaft and it has a small groove on the inside that would accept an o ring.

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That's the oil seal behind the CS. It goes in the bore, otherwise it wouldn't seal. Can you fit that bushing in by itself?

"Good job, guys. "

Behind the crankshaft where?

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* Counter Shaft sprocket. The little sprocket the chain connects to.

It's possible that in the cyclepedia article the bushing and o ring stayed in the case half when it was split. I'll check mine when I get home to see if it came out when I did the split.

"Good job, guys. "

Which one is the counter sproket?

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Ah ok so in order of stacking I've got counter shaft... o ring...bearing...case... seal...that little sleeve thingy ... o ring then the counter sproket?

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