A few questions about my 94 kdx200

[KDXGarage]

It is AC.

What brand of vise is that?

Very good job on the rebuild so far!

[ubareddition]

It is AC.

What brand of vise is that?

Very good job on the rebuild so far!

available at harbor freight


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[KDXGarage]

OK. Thanks. I was wondering if it was a Wilton.

[ubareddition]

So I'm kinda at a loss with what I'm doing wrong here. I've unsuccessfully tried 4 times to mate the 2 case halves. They just don't go. I'm using the tusk crank installation tool along with threaded rods to pull the case together and the last attempt was going well. I could just start to thread the case bolts and I noticed a hairline crack coming from the edge of output shaft in the case. I'll just show you what I've got going on and I'm open to any suggestions or tell me what I'm doing wrong.

First the pics of the crack





So the original problem I was having was when I was pulling the halves together the crank would pull all the way into the left side and pull out of the right case half. Also it would not go evenly. Would compress more on the crank side than the shifter shaft side. It was also a pain to keep the shifter components especially that gear on the end of the input shaft. So after trial and error on my 4th try I thought I had it all figured out. I took a piece of pipe bigger than the crank seal on the clutch side and welded a washer on to it







Then put the nut on it so the crank could not back out.








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[ubareddition]

Then I drilled 2 holes in my work bench so that that shaft and the other could go thru and the motor could sit flat so I could work on it.







then I placed the case with the bearings in it and gasket maker on top of it
Line it up all nice nice place 3 threaded rods into case bolt holes then using nuts on those and the tusk installation tool begin pulling the case halves together slowly a quarter turn at a time all the way around while tapping all around gently with a rubber mallet.

Does any of that seem wrong? Maybe the case already had a flaw? Is maybe something not lining up? Did I forget something?




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[ubareddition]

Will it make any difference to press the output bearing onto the shaft instead of the case?


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[pumpguy]

For a keyed ignition, you can splice into the hot side of the kill button lead. Wire one lead from the keyed switch to ground, and the other lead to the spliced connection.

With the key out, the circuit will be direct to ground, same as if you were pressing the kill button.

A secret toggle switch, wired as above, will work just as well.

Hope this helps.

[ubareddition]

Can a mod edit my title to : Devons 1994 kdx200 build


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[black]

In order to check the KIPS, you can pull the pipe and remove the gray cover on the right side on the motor. Loosen the KIPS arm(watch out it is left hand thread and also support the shaft so you don't snap the pin which is inside the clutch side riding in the governor) so it drops down a little and disengage from the KIPS rod. Looking into the pipe opening, pull on the KIPS rod on the side of the motor to see if the sub valves and main valve are opening. The e-series bike(89-94) are known to eat up the sub valves, especially the left one. What I am saying sounds complicated, but once you get a look at the bike you'll figure out. The KIPS sub valves are no longer available from Kawasaki but there is a company in England making steel ones. When mine go, I'm ordering the steel ones.

do you know that company name by chance?? or have a link? ( foudn the website BDK but nothign re: KDX steel sub valves)

[ubareddition]

Does anyone have any more advice for pressing the cases together? I'm about to build a small press to help but I'm still looking for a little advice.

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[Dekon]

In order to check the KIPS, you can pull the pipe and remove the gray cover on the right side on the motor. Loosen the KIPS arm(watch out it is left hand thread and also support the shaft so you don't snap the pin which is inside the clutch side riding in the governor) so it drops down a little and disengage from the KIPS rod. Looking into the pipe opening, pull on the KIPS rod on the side of the motor to see if the sub valves and main valve are opening. The e-series bike(89-94) are known to eat up the sub valves, especially the left one. What I am saying sounds complicated, but once you get a look at the bike you'll figure out. The KIPS sub valves are no longer available from Kawasaki but there is a company in England making steel ones. When mine go, I'm ordering the steel ones.

do you know that company name by chance?? or have a link? ( foudn the website BDK but nothign re: KDX steel sub valves)

Black not to hijack this thread, here is a link to E Series KIPS valves. BDK is the company, out of England.

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 15&t=17339

[TheGriz]

I'm a big fan of using a case splitter and using a press to remove old bearings when I can, but for reassembly, I like to heat cases and freeze bearings. In my last case split on a gasgas engine, I threw the bearings and crank in a cooler with dry ice overnight. It required no force to mate the cases.

[ubareddition]

I just talked to a friend who has dry ice at his job and is going to bring me a small cooler of it tomorrow. They keep around 400 pounds of it on hand so he can get me a few pounds no problem. I'll take your suggestion and freeze the crank and bearings.

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[ubareddition]

I'm a big fan of using a case splitter and using a press to remove old bearings when I can, but for reassembly, I like to heat cases and freeze bearings. In my last case split on a gasgas engine, I threw the bearings and crank in a cooler with dry ice overnight. It required no force to mate the cases.

Would you suggest heating the case as well or would freezing the crank and bearings be sufficient.

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[Friedom]

Some thoughts: you say you're posting the cases together, but more accurately you're pulling the crank into the case halves, right?
If you had to create your (awesome) welded holder to keep it from pulling out the other side, then something is hitting and preventing the cases from matching. Output shaft is my first guess since the crack you pointed out. Is that crack new?
Are you using any thermal expansion/contraction to help with fits?

"Good job, guys. "

[ubareddition]

On my first attempt I put the bearings in the freezer over night. I'm not really sure if the cracks was there before or not. If it is the output shaft what can I do to make it line up?

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[Friedom]

As far as I can guess, line it up carefully before there's pressure on it.
It seems to me that in order for the crank to pull out of the other case half, something has to be pushing that case half away really persistently.
Have you read on the writeups on this for the kdx? I don't know if it matters whether you do left case half or right half first, but I have read of people putting the bearings into the case before installing the crank. If you can't remove the bearings from the crank though, that won't work :/


"Good job, guys. "

[Friedom]

Mind you I'm no expert on this and haven't done it yet, but I will be soon so I'm happy to think it out with you.

"Good job, guys. "

[ubareddition]

As far as I can guess, line it up carefully before there's pressure on it.
It seems to me that in order for the crank to pull out of the other case half, something has to be pushing that case half away really persistently.
Have you read on the writeups on this for the kdx? I don't know if it matters whether you do left case half or right half first, but I have read of people putting the bearings into the case before installing the crank. If you can't remove the bearings from the crank though, that won't work :/


"Good job, guys. "

On my first attempt I had the bearings in the case. But now the bearings are on the crank and seated pretty good. The output shaft bearing is in the case. I was thinking about taking that bearing out of the case and putting it on the output shaft but I'm not sure if that would make a difference. I may take it out anyway and put it in the dry ice with the crank and bearings.

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[Friedom]

Dry ice sounds like a great idea for the whole crank. Are there and marks inside either case half to indicate something was binding/pushing back/not properly aligning?

"Good job, guys. "