Brakeline clamps

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 01:18 pm Jul 05 2005

Just looked at some new Yamahas...they have a brakeline clamp that has a curve to it so it fits the natural lay of the brakeline (if you keep the KDX routing method). You still need to fashion a piece to bolt it to on the fork guard (look at Skipro's gallery for some great pics on his install), but...for less than $5 the Yamaha piece will work great!

I saw it on every model in the showroom...YZs and Fs.

As long as I keep buying 'stuff' for this conversion I can put off actually DOING it!!

..I think I'm about out of stall options..........

Post by **Indawoods** » 11:49 pm Jul 09 2005

Got em on yet CC?

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 07:39 pm Jul 11 2005

By the timestamp on your post?

Yep. Posted some pics, too.

Rode it a bit on Sunday. Fork strength is great (compared to the OEM KDX). Valving needs work...first time my wrists have hurt after a ride since I don't know when.

Tracks much straighter than the oem forks. Hey! Now I know what a damper is for!! Mine actually seems to have an effect!!! It's not bolted to spaghetti anymore.

Post by **Indawoods** » 07:49 pm Jul 11 2005

canyncarvr wrote:Tracks much straighter than the oem forks. Hey! Now I know what a damper is for!! Mine actually seems to have an effect!!! It's not bolted to spaghetti anymore.

I noticed that too! A lot more effective.....

Post by **Indawoods** » 08:09 pm Jul 11 2005

Nice pics CC... I need to lay a bead on my stem tube stops too for clearance sakes for the tank. But other than that.... I think it is a much better setup than OEM. I find myself setting the action lighter and lighter.... I will know when it's too light. Got both R and C at 10 clicks out. I think I started at 6 and 8. Once I get close then I will mess with the shim springs and maybe some Gold Valves... but that will throw everything way off again I imagine.

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 11:04 pm Jul 11 2005

10 clicks out from full in?!? Started at 6 and 8??

You are nuts!!!

I started my forks at C-12 R-12. Now they are at C-15 R-12.
That's with woods type valving as recommeded by Race Tech.

The forks are supposed to be plush, so start softening them up. You aren't taking huge hits and jumps, are you?

Post by **Indawoods** » 11:08 pm Jul 11 2005

I know SKI... but I don't want to endo because I got em set too soft!

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 11:43 pm Jul 11 2005

Remember, it's dampining, not spring rate that is changing.

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 11:48 am Jul 12 2005

I'm not sure what the # of clicks is you're supposed to have...the screws were goobered on mine to the extent that one fork had 19R and the other only 10R.

With the caps off I squirted some teflon into the cap to loosen up any junk...helped a good bit.

I'm at (about) C17 R16. 6&8? Ouch!

BTW...what are you guys running for preload? I took out the spacing washer that was installed to get to about 6mm....oil@ 110. I'd prefer a preload of about 3mm, but there's nowhere to get more room.

A correction please?: Clickers are pretty much low speed only, right? Valving is high speed? ...I don't think I have that backwards.

Inda: You're running on the stock stack with a couple off the top, right? My top is 4-24x15...one heckuva lot less than the oem wrist breakers!

Anyone up for a shim stack thread? Howabout post 'em in your bike config?
**edit**
done

KDXer · Post by **KDXer** » 01:38 pm Jul 12 2005

I'm still awaiting my specs from the tuner, I might call him again tomorrow.

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 02:29 pm Jul 12 2005

CALL HIM RIGHT NOW!! Tell'm inquiring minds wanna know!!

Post by **Indawoods** » 08:54 pm Jul 12 2005

I'm running stock... period!
I didn't see any way to adjust preload on mine, or else I woulda checked what mine was.

Your right on the HSC LSC.... And I'm sure I will end up taking out some larger shims to adjust the HSC.

The KX forks were designed for MX so some measures will have to be taken to make a perfect woods setup.

My springs are .42's... SN says .42's or .40's are right for 200# but give no indication as to valving setup but I will have 'em right by next spring. Just runnin what I got this season to get a feel for where they need work.

So far I know I have them set too stiff! Right Ski?

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 10:51 pm Jul 12 2005

Your springs sound perfect, your clickers should be backed way way out; more on compression than rebound. Best way to set them up is to have someone spot you as you hit a set of whoops. Rear shock too. Have them watch for where the tires are not in contact with the earth. Have them video tape it if you wish. It will be obvious if the compression or rebound needs to be fine tuned. Once that's done, you will be amazed what the forks will do. It was hard to believe what even a single click would do in that regard.

KDXer · Post by **KDXer** » 01:53 am Jul 13 2005

The tuners at Eastern Creek race track today tuning road bikes. I have to call back tomorrow CC.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 02:05 am Jul 13 2005

A correction please?: Clickers are pretty much low speed only, right? Valving is high speed? ...I don't think I have that backwards.

Yes on the clickers, but valving is what you make it.

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 09:35 pm Jul 13 2005

Jason wrote:
A correction please?: Clickers are pretty much low speed only, right? Valving is high speed? ...I don't think I have that backwards.
Yes on the clickers, but valving is what you make it.

That is why I recommend adjustment of clickers while traveling over whoops. They are low speed fork action, even though you take them at a fast pace.
High speed example would be a sharp edge, like a rock or shelf / step up or down.
Just for anyone reading this clairification.

KDXer · Post by **KDXer** » 08:41 am Jul 14 2005

I spoke to the tuner today and it wasn't very helphul info that he gave me. This tuner works and loads and loads of bikes from minis to factory race teams bikes (road and dirt) so I can understand (sorta) when he says he can't remember exactly what shim stack config he ended up using. Not very helpful I know but he offered to take a look if I wanted to bring them back out to him. He remembered me and my forks but not the exact stack. This is all the info he could remember
(hope it makes some sense to someone)

There is a 21mm (???) shim ??? on the top of the stack.
between the valve and the shim stack I installed a 13mm clearance washer which you can remove to stiffen it up for a heavier or more aggressive rider.

I apologize for the lack of info but I will probably take the forks out to him when I take my shock out for a sevice and revalve. WHEN I pull my finger out and do the shock / linkage / swingarm bearings.

CC did I miss the outcome of how your unitrack bushing and sleeve job wore ??

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 01:49 am Jul 15 2005

Trev, you didn't miss anything. I saw it spread all over his kitchen table.

KDXer · Post by **KDXer** » 01:54 am Jul 15 2005

Cool,

CC was kind enough to inform me about his progress.

Post by **Indawoods** » 11:40 pm Jul 18 2005

Here's an alternative from Ride Engineering....

Brake Line Clamp
(direct-route conversion)
Machined from billet aluminum with
Delrin plastic base.
Provides a flat base for installation on
all fork guards (Suzuki – Yamaha –
Kawasaki including minis). Comes
with stainless steel mounting
hardware.
Appl: ’99-‘03 RM125/250
’00-’04 RM85
’96-’04 YZ85/125/250/YZ250f
’98-’04 /400f/426f/450f
’99-‘04WR250f/400f/426f/450f
’94-’03 KX85/100/125/250/500
MX-BLC00-BA BLACK $29.95
MX-BLC00-RA RED $29.95

KDXRIDER.NET

KDXRIDER.NET

Brakeline clamps

Brakeline clamps