Piston and Head. How does this look?

Post by **Mr. Wibbens** » 02:17 pm Jan 14 2010

I just had intercourse with myself

I must admit, I liked it

Post by **Indawoods** » 02:19 pm Jan 14 2010

Your not supposed to use your finger Wibby!

Post by **Mr. Wibbens** » 02:25 pm Jan 14 2010

Damn I knew I was enjoying myself too much

Post by **Varmint** » 05:01 pm Jan 14 2010

He's really pissed and not been on here for a few days. Wibbs, can you go check on him?

Post by **Indawoods** » 05:05 pm Jan 14 2010

Just bein' an uptight Ol' phooey head!

Post by **Varmint** » 05:12 pm Jan 14 2010

Hopefully getting the cylinder off tonight, scotchbrite and some pictures. Hopefully I can get it looking as nice as Wibbs.

Wibbs, what motion did you use to have "intercourse" with the bore? Round and round?

Post by **Mr. Wibbens** » 05:25 pm Jan 14 2010

Round & round and Up & Down and Side to side, rinse and repeat

Dog damned studs sure get in the way

re; Wibbs, can you go check on him?

Oh he just gotta lil sand in his mangina and needs to work it out. Ya know how sensitive that area can be?

Aint easy having all that intellect and be trapped in the body of a squeky little leprechaun, ever searching for his lucky charms

Post by **Julien D** » 06:02 pm Jan 14 2010

mangina....

Oh and varmint.. with the scotchbrite, there's really no way you can scrub that's going to damage or remove any plating. You're just getting the glaze off the cylinder...

Post by **Mr. Wibbens** » 02:49 pm Jan 15 2010

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Post by **Varmint** » 08:08 pm Jan 15 2010

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VirtualVarmint wrote:Hopefully getting the cylinder off tonight, scotchbrite and some pictures. Hopefully I can get it looking as nice as Wibbs.

Wibbs, what motion did you use to have "intercourse" with the bore? Round and round?

Some pics

Piston intake side

Piston exhaust side... blow by

Cylinder shots

Piston skirt measurement was at service limit. Time for a new piston.

Ring end gap, and second ring width and clearance within limits.

Not too bad. I can still steel the cross hatch. There are some vertical marks but they are not scratches or gouges.

Brian · Post by **Brian** » 08:25 pm Jan 15 2010

That engine has been eating some dirt. That piston is scratched pretty good. I'm suprized the cylinder looks as good as it does. It's definately time for a new top end.

Wet a scotchbrite with WD40 and run it around in the cylinder then wipe it clean.

When I install a new piston I take a Sharpie (marker) and put a small dot on the piston at both of the pins that locate the rings. It's much easier to make sure the rings (end gap) are in the correct place while I'm putting the cylinder down over the piston. I can usually squeeze the rings with one hand while I'm installing the cylinder with the other.

Post by **Varmint** » 08:53 pm Jan 15 2010

dirt: I agree. There was grit under the head. I thought that was strange. I would expect that area to be clean. I'm anal about my air filter. I keep it clean and oiled. What's even more puzzling is I don't ride in sanding conditions. Almost always rocks and mud. Maybe the PO of the bike wasn't so attentive. Any where else dirt could get in?

sharpie marks: Not sure I get that.

A dot right under each pin? Once the ring is in the cylinder how does the dot help you?

Brian · Post by **Brian** » 09:42 pm Jan 15 2010

Put the dot right next to the ring locating pins. The rings are pinned on the intake side of the piston so they can't rotate around on the piston. Both of the ring end gaps locate on about the carburettor side of the piston. If the rings are not exactly in the correct place when you put the cylinder on it will damage the rings and piston. You may not even feel it. The dots help visualize where the rings are supposed to be located. Once the rings are on the piston and you have your hands in the way it can be hard to tell if the rings are in the proper orientation.

Post by **Julien D** » 06:59 am Jan 16 2010

easy now, fuzzy little man peach.

Post by **Varmint** » 01:13 pm Jan 16 2010

How did you get the main valve out? I've followed all the steps and it wont come out. Could carbon build up stop it from sliding out?

This step is confusing me:
"Remove the left pinion on the main shaft and pull out the main shaft"

I was able to remove the main shaft... the pinion is on it. Not sure what they meant.

Do I need to remove the valve lockbolt and gear to get the main valve out?

Also, the manual shows a spring on the valve lockbolt. Mine didn't have one but it did have an extra washer ???

Post by **Varmint** » 02:32 pm Jan 16 2010

Got it apart. The carbon build up prevented the main valve from coming out. Scrubbed some cleaner and pulled it out. That valve has an 1/8" of hard carbon on there.

Nothing broken in the KIPS. I hope I can get it back together.

Also, the spring was missing under the valve lock bolt. I checked inside the cylinder and it wasn't there. I took it out slowly so I know I didn't lose it.

There were two washers on there instead of one. I thought I read somewhere that removing the spring was a mod to get the hit to midrange to come earlier. Any truth to that? Should I put a new spring back in?

Post by **Varmint** » 08:09 pm Jan 26 2010

RB'd

Post by **Indawoods** » 08:20 pm Jan 26 2010

Man... that's allot of buildup! What oil are you using?

Post by **Julien D** » 08:49 pm Jan 26 2010

The RB gear looks sweet!

Post by **Varmint** » 09:08 pm Jan 26 2010

Indawoods wrote:Man... that's allot of buildup! What oil are you using?

Not sure what the PO was using but I started with Castor 927 and then switched to AMSOil Interceptor. I've run two or three tanks of that.

So, now it's an all new top end, cleaned up, RBd, and ready for assembly. I'll break it in with dino oil, one tanks worth, and then return to AMSOil.

Any recommendations on a good "break in" oil?

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Piston and Head. How does this look?