Turbine Core 2 Maintenance

[SOARSKI]

I'm repacking my muffler for the first time. I was able to remove the silencer core and use a coat hanger to remove the leftover packing that did not come out. I read past threads on this topic particularly this one:

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... repack[url]

Should I attempt to remove the arrestor by drilling the rivets at the rear of the cannister? It seems that many have had no luck doing this, even damaging the arrestor. Or should I just repack and be done with it. It sure would be nice to clean some of the gook I suspect is in the arrestor.

Canyncarvr, when packing down around the arrestor on the intake side did you just cut a strip of packing and stuff it around/between the arrestor and cannister, then use the rest of the packing as you normally would around the silencer core?

What should I clean the inside of the canister with or is it worth cleaning?


Here are some Pics:








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[scheckaet]

"Should I attempt to remove the arrestor by drilling the rivets at the rear of the cannister? It seems that many have had no luck doing this, even damaging the arrestor. Or should I just repack and be done with it. It sure would be nice to clean some of the gook I suspect is in the arrestor. "

I removed mine didn't have any problem, seal it with high temp silicone and replaced the pop rivet with bolts, doesn't seem to have any problem.

I clean the inside with a wire brush, coz... well coz i could

yours looks not too bad, I clean the arrestor with a wire brush on a drill to remove the carbon deposit, then repack.

[Mr. Wibbens]

I use a torch and burn it all out

drill out rivets and replace with new rivets

[IdahoCharley]

Look from the outside in - The spark trap can be seen. Flush it out with some solvent - maybe let the cap sit in some carb cleaner for a bit - then call it good.

Your perforated baffle with the fiberglass stuck in the holes is a good reason IMHO to go to Silent Sport packing or one of the Covered Tube Insert types which cost more but last longer. When the holes become plugged in the baffle with carbon or fiber, the packing and silencer just can not perform as it should. Silent Sport packing is loose packing and of larger size and will not plug you baffle even if you go way beyond the normal intervals of packing. The tube type distributed by Moose, MSR and others is packing enclosed in an outer fiberglass type of material - It installs quick and pulls out in one piece making the job a lot less nasty.

[Mr. Wibbens]

I like the loose stuff

One bag will last 3 or 4 packings

[barryadam]

I like the loose stuff

One bag will last 3 or 4 packings

+1

Mine looked similar and I stopped by FMF's offices to get the packing. While there, I asked specifically about packing in the rear section (no, CC that was not a guh-hey reference, LOL).

They said no packing goes in there, but I decided to put some in there anyway. It's a bit harder to pack, but worked for me.

Noise level, performance ? Dunno as this was on my KX500. Hard to tell.

Hey, Soarski, you didn't finish that crossword puzzle...

[Varmint]

Noise level, performance ? Dunno as this was on my KX500. Hard to tell.

BRAAAAAPPP!

I just did mine and followed these instructions:
http://www.fmfracing.com/TechSupport/Repacking

FMF says, "Do not remove the rear end-cap from the muffler can." So I didn't

[canyncarvr]

I ruined an FmF TCII arrester trying to get the arrester out. It was stuck in there good!

Wibby's setup is not similar to the 'H' TCII. 'The loose stuff' (string-like packing) won't work in the 'H' TCII.

Canyncarvr, when packing down around the arrestor on the intake side did you just cut a strip of packing and stuff it around/between the arrestor and cannister, then use the rest of the packing as you normally would around the silencer core?

I'm going to guess on this one...

By 'intake' side you mean the INPUT side I guess....where the screws fit into the flange THRU the cannister.

No. I don't cut a 'strip'. I tuck the ends of the full-length strips into that somewhat 'protected' area.

There isn't a right way/wrong way to repack the TCII. Certainly there are preferences. The packing you get from FmF isn't cut spot-on to fit the TCII particularly anyway. You have to fuss with it some.

I DO use at least a couple of different layers placed in an offset manner (like an offset quilted sleeping bag), held on with masking tape.

I do hang some off the end of the core to fit into the 'hole' in the cannister (fits at the bottom of your top pic..the arrester end.

IF the arrester came off easily (yours might), THAT would make it much easier to pack...and THAT is how Wibby's is setup.

If you can easily slip the cannister onto the core without stuffing it as you go..you didn't pack it correctly.

[Mr. Wibbens]

I ruined an FmF TCII arrester trying to get the arrester out. It was stuck in there good!

Wibby's setup is not similar to the 'H' TCII. 'The loose stuff' (string-like packing) won't work in the 'H' TCII.
.

I dunno, from the pics, looking at the stinger and looking down to the turbin core, looks eggzactly like mine

It'd work on that pipe above I guarantee it!

[scheckaet]

looks exactly like mine, didn't have trouble getting things out, or back in.

[canyncarvr]

>|QBB<[/url]

looks exactly like mine, didn't have trouble getting things out, or back in.

See?

Your mileage may vary.

I didn't say it can't come apart. I said mine didn't. I soaked it in carb cleaner, I doused it with two different penetrants, I soaked it in kerosene, I heated it up, I used a slide hammer, I tried knocking it out from the input side...

Did I mention it didn't come apart?

'eggzactly the same...'

Like this??



Hate to break it to 'ya..but that ain't the same.

[Mr. Wibbens]

I dunno what is so difficult to figure out

You wrap the silly string around the pipe just like any other packing material

It aint that big of a deal

Just don't over think it


As for the pipe.

I've heard the pipe's are not the same but from looking at the pictures, the internals look very similar to me

Just because you could not figgure it out does not necessarily mean it can't be done

Sorry you had so much trouble with yours

[canyncarvr]

Re:'I dunno what is so difficult to figure out'

It's not difficult at all.

You say yours is the same. It isn't. The inference that how yours works is applicable to the 'H' TCII is wrong, misleading..and basically goobered. That the internals look similar has nothing to do with it.

The TCII cap is separate from the arrester. You drill out the rivets that hold the cap on..and that's exactly what you get. The cap.

That leaves the arrester still inside..held in by the second ring of rivets you see in the first pics.

Drill them out..and...what? You have no leverage, no purchase to apply to the arrester to get it out. It don't FALL out. You have to either PULL it out or PUSH it out.

Good luck.


Re: '..Just because you could not figgure it out...'

More humor from one that has no clue what the point is.

[Mr. Wibbens]

I said they look similar, deal with it

Mine comes apart the same way you describe

That seams similar 2 donut?

You say silly string won't work

I call bullshit

[canuckhybrid125]

Dont touch the end cap and dont drill the rivets.Repack just how the fmf video shows.

[canyncarvr]

Who you fussin' with about looking similar? I said that already.

The fiberglas mat has a form..and it's taped in place. When you wrap the core, then put it in the cannister..it's going to stay where it's put.

'silly string' doesn't give you that option. There are going to be some gaps someplace. You don't exactly layer the stuff.

OK. I give. It works great. You can use it forever and ever. I'm not saying it's all wrong. I just don't like it.

Packed from the silencer end..THAT would be a TV of a completely different color.

[Mr. Wibbens]

>|QBB<[/url]

Who you fussin' with about looking similar? I said that already.

The fiberglas mat has a form..and it's taped in place. When you wrap the core, then put it in the cannister..it's going to stay where it's put.

'silly string' doesn't give you that option.

iT DOESN'T?

Just cuz "you" say so?

And this comes from your vast knowledge of using the stuff ??

I still call

[canyncarvr]

I said I give.

What do you want? A notorized confession?



Nope. Never used it. Just one look at the pile in the bag was enough for me.

My humble and heartfelt and utmostedly sincerealy apologement please do accepteth. I know knawthink!!

[Mr. Wibbens]

I said I give.

What do you want? A notorized confession?



!

That'll do

[IdahoCharley]

The silent sport (string) is a little harder to pack IMHO. When I was using it I would roughly build a uniform sheet of the stuff and then wrap the baffle; following-up the SS wrap with fiberglass tape to hold the sheet in place. Then insert into the canister.

The preformed tube roll type is very very easy and no mess. Uniform packing method.

Fiberglass wraps - Easier than string packs harder than tube roll type packs. Messy upon removal. How much verse how little? Two wraps or three wraps? Seems to me that you always have compromises - sides of canister tight to get a good fill - Does it matter?? Don't know. Maybe the fiberglass packing blows itself from the high density areas to the lower density areas over time. Maybe not.

With the tube roll type I never need to question or answer myself. I just remove the old and replace with new - ignorance is bliss at times - oooh and did I mention - it (tube roll pack) is NOT messy!!