Does the SSS exist?

[Indawoods]

Yep...sure does! This was the purpose of my ride today was to find the SSS. I found it and it works to an extent.

Let me give you some background.... I am running 13/47 sprockets and I am hard pressed to find where it will wheelie at will... I found that too, but due to the ratio... I do not get the full effect of either because I am built for speed.

The first sweet spot exists at 1 1/3rd out.... from a dead stop it won't launch but if I hit it again it will... so I have to preload the carb I guess you could say (anyone know why this is?)

The second sweet spot is at 2 1/2 out... I was 4 stroking hills everywhere in 3rd and it would not die.... very cool! (thought I was in second til I checked)

Just for testing purposes I ran the same hill in 3rd on the first sweet spot... I could still take them in 3rd but would run out of steam and want to die at the top. So.... the SSS does exist!

My question is... what effect is the extra lean setting going to do to my cylinder? What happens when I get out of the tight spot and hit it WFO? Is it running too lean or is this just at the pilot stage? (I assume it is)

Does someone make a 49 tooth sprocket? And will this clear alright? This should make up for my bikes shortfall .... Just a little extra torque!

[bradf]

Inda, once the throttle is past the 3/8 -1/2 (somewhere in there) the pilot circuit is virtually out. I figure the divider plate increases the air signal to the pilot and once the slide is up past 1/2 way the negative pressure drops off the pilot significantly. It is this combination of the idle circuit pilot, slide, divider and Ron's propriatary voodoo that make it so effective. We need Ron to edjamakate us on this SSS. I will not ride without turning to 2 1/2 immediately after warm-up. I do know this, on the 20th I ran the SSS with the CEK-3 and it was almost too rich, mainly due to the temps being 30 degrees hotter than where it had been. I rarely got past 1/2 throttle and there was never a chance of running lean. On Weds I put the CEL-3 in and it was leaner, crisper, and the SSS changed from 2 5/8 back to 2 1/2. It was perfect and I never ever have spooge running 32:1. I don't think that this is "extra lean". If it were I would have toasted mine the last few rides as I ran hours below 1/2 throttle.

[KDXer]

I have a renthal 49 tooth and I had a sunstar 49 toother and they don't rub or hit anywhere. I'm running 13 / 49 and always have.

[fuzzy]

Yeah, definitely remember if it gets hot you're probably going to have to drop the pilot/main by one size...

As far as any damage being done, I don't think you have anything to worry about until you get ot the point where it 'lean bogs,' and I know you know that feeling/condition....

Man, I get to get my carb off to Ron....

[canyncarvr]

I've heard (and that makes it so...don't it?) that you won't ever be damaging an engine due to a too lean pilot. I take about zero stock in most stuff I read (anecdote type 'facts'). I'm just saying that is a commonly held opinion.

I wouldn't worry about it.

Ron wrote a bit about it. His thinking as I recall is that the strange setting to the airscrew means there is likely some crossover with another carb circuit. The SSS effect is not due merely to the pilot/AS.

Common knowledge would tell you that 2.5 out on the AS is indicative of some other problem, generally a way too rich pilot jet. The fact that very small changes to the air screw make a very big difference in performance tell me that it IS indeed working.

Inda, you describe it perfectly. Particularly the note of a big difference in 3rd gear pull...in actually mistaking what gear you're in! At the 'smaller' SS, 3rd gear does indeed lose a lot of steam.

But the SSS also shows in 1st gear response and 2nd gear pull, too. I've found the bike to be a whole lot less loopy on the SSS. Most hills (meaning 1st gear crawling stuff..not high speed 'get a run at it' hills) are a flat out PITA on the 1SS if you get any traction. Can't keep the front end down even with the light shell shining in my face! (That's an exaggeration to make a point, otherwise known as hyperbole ;) )

I recall a 49 will barely make it, clearance-wise. An old debate...but I'm perfectly happy with a 12T CSS instead.

Thanks for the input!! After you mess with it for awhile, you'll find you know exactly when to turn the AS 1/16 one way or the other with temp/el. changes. Heck, with Mr. Black's finger-adjustable AS, you can do it on the fly! Piece-o-cake!!

re:' What happens when I get out of the tight spot and hit it WFO?'

You must needs be hanging on!!

Cheers!

[IdahoCharley]

Concerning the 49 tooth sprocket. We are running a 50 tooth with no clearance problems.

[canyncarvr]

Well, th'ar 'ya go.

I've never tried a 50T sprocket. I've read a gadozen times (that's a lot of times) that the chain guide needs to be changed with that large a sprocket.

The FRP chain guide used to be advertised as working with a 50T sprocket...that it was different from the oem unit in that way.


Something else that is fuzzy to me...a 49 will run with a 'regular' 108 link chain, but the 50 takes 110L? Is that correct? ...Maybe a 49 needs 110L, too?

I'd rather not have to snug the snails all the way up tight, anyway. While unlikely to be a huge deal, a shorter wheelbase at some point has it's problems.

[IdahoCharley]

The 13/50 combination does require a 110 pin chain. I would quess that the 49 may require it also but can't confirm that since we never tried a 49T sprocket.

The stock chain guide worked fine clearance wise but was not wide enough for an X-ring chain. I used a few washers to spread the chain guide apart for additional chain clearance.

[KDXer]

I've used both 108 and 110 link chains and they both work, they are just at opposite ends of adjustability. With the 110 its on 8 on the snail adjusterma thingy, can't quite remember where the 108 sat.

[Indawoods]

I guess the cheapest route to go would be the 12T to see if I like it or not.

[rlbranson]

Several of us around here run 13-50 sprockets. I have a long enough chain (forget how long) so that the rear wheel is moved toward the rear of the adjustment range. That moves it away from the chain guide. if you ran the rear wheel forward in the adjustment range it looks like it might rub the chain guide. with 13-50 my 200 pulls a lot better than with the 47 t sprocket. if you want you can then put a 12 t on the front or a 14 t for different conditions. Personally I don't like the 12 T because they wear the chain more and drag the chain on the top of the swing arm more.

Bob
kdx200

[canyncarvr]

Uh-oh...I've seen this can of worms before! ;)

Certainly, to each his own. My 13T CSSs never lasted any better than my 12T. The pitch (not chain pitch..angle of the sprocket teeth) of a 12T is fine for a 520 chain (uh..that's right, ain't it? It's not a 530? Well..whatever it is!). I'm not the chain geru, but I've been told that by people that are supposed to know more than a few times (not quite a gazillion times, though). It works for me. That's a good thing...cuz it's my bike!

I've changed my chain slipper once in five years. Lot'sa thousands of miles.

I'm not trying to convince anyone of anything. Anyone that doesn't like a 12T certainly doesn't have to buy one.

If the question is, 'I wonder how this will work?', which would you rather do? Buy a 110L chain and a $40 sprocket to test the setup? ...or buy a $12 12T?

Oh...and put it ON the bike in about two minutes.

AND take it off just as quick if you don't like it.

Inda already figgered that one out...

Some folk would say that decent chain maintenance and (of course) the use of super-d-duper-magical-glow-in-the-dark chain lube is what matters anyway.

But not me!!

Cheers!

[fuzzy]

I like the CSS swap as well as you can change it back w/o removing the rear wheel depnding on where you'll be riding...