Does the KIPS parts move with just kick starter?

[raisedinal]

Got the Head back from RB yesterday and ready to button it back up after doing the Piston replacement AND KIPS dismantel and clean.

I thought I'd check to make sure i assembled everything correct (since all moving parts are done) so I kick it through with the head off BUT I don't see the KIPS parts moving? My first 2 stroke so not use to these types of parts. I'm used to cam chain and rocker arms which are tied to the crank.

one more important piece of info. I pulled the cylinder before I paid for the online manual. And for the Right side rod that connects the KIPS to the lower case I removed the screw and pin



and pulled it slightly up and roated (not forcefully) so it cleared the top gear it controlled. Then I got the manual to do the rest of the work and saw that I wasn't supposed to and it slid back into position and the pin went back with no problems I followed the manual the rest of the project.

It felt solid and secure like it could only go back one way like it went back into the grove in the lower section of the case


AND when I reassembled the cylinder it all lined up properly...BUT it doesn't move when I kick it through.

Haveing never opened the clutch case I don't know for sure how the KIPS is controlled but I just thought it'd move with the crank and piston?


Do I need to remove the clutch cover and put it back in the right location? or is it working properly and I just need to put the head on and go!

Thanks to all for answering my questions due to my own mistakes.

[Indawoods]

It only moves when RPM's reach around 6K. That is not a concern.

What is a concern is I am wondering if you supported the shaft under the boot when you disassembled the KIPS gear. There is a flat spot on that shaft where a 8mm wrench fits when you take the gear at the top off. If you didn't, there is a chance that you broke off #2 in your diagram.

[canyncarvr]

He didn't take the LHT nut off, the way I read it. That's why he took the pin out.

The activating device is a spring loaded slot (#3) that moves when steel balls (in the part the actual number 3 is on top of in the pic) are forced in their tracks to the outside due to the rotation of the assembly.

The 1,2,3,4 parts move (slowly) when you kick the bike, but you can't see them..and you don't kick it fast enough to make the balls move from their 'home' positions.

My guess...chances are good you're OK. You did put pressure on that pin by pushing down on it that's different form the force put on it when the KIPS works.

The only way to find out if it's OK for sure is to take the RH cover off the bike to check that pin. It is intended to be 'square' with the parts that it's attached to..perpendicular to the bracket that holds it, parallel to the rod it screws to.

It is not a robust piece..it doesn't take kindly to being forced in a direction it doesn't want to go.

..which is where the LHT part comes in. Folks that think it's a RHT bend that pin trying to force the nut off the top when turning it the wrong way...and NOT supporting the shaft as Inda mentioned.


Determination that the KIPS is working correctly is a two-step process. With the pipe off, manually activate the kips parts via the nut under the slotted cap on the LH side of the cylinder. Looking into the exhaust port you can see the main flap move up and down and the subport drums rotate/seat correctly.

With the pipe back on and a warmed engine, blip the throttle past the 6KRPM point, observe the movement of that same nut. It should move fully and completely within its limits in both directions.

Oh...you mention removing the clutch cover. That won't get you to the KIPS. The clutch cover is directly over the clutch...it's the piece directly underneath that cover that needs to come off to get to the KIPS....the cover you're kicker shaft goes through.


If you verify the KIPS works OK when the engine is running, you are probably OK.

A possible result of that pin breaking off because it's tweaked? Complete engine destruction.

Not trying to scare 'ya. But, you won't be able to say you didn't know.

[raisedinal]

It only moves when RPM's reach around 6K. That is not a concern.

What is a concern is I am wondering if you supported the shaft under the boot when you disassembled the KIPS gear. There is a flat spot on that shaft where a 8mm wrench fits when you take the gear at the top off. If you didn't, there is a chance that you broke off #2 in your diagram.

I did remove this nut after reading the manual and learning of the reverse thread and the indention to hold the rod (but after I had the cylinder off) so I'm fairly sure that #2 is still intact.

He didn't take the LHT nut off, the way I read it. That's why he took the pin out.

The activating device is a spring loaded slot (#3) that moves when steel balls (in the part the actual number 3 is on top of in the pic) are forced in their tracks to the outside due to the rotation of the assembly.

The 1,2,3,4 parts move (slowly) when you kick the bike, but you can't see them..and you don't kick it fast enough to make the balls move from their 'home' positions.

My guess...chances are good you're OK. You did put pressure on that pin by pushing down on it that's different form the force put on it when the KIPS works.

The only way to find out if it's OK for sure is to take the RH cover off the bike to check that pin. It is intended to be 'square' with the parts that it's attached to..perpendicular to the bracket that holds it, parallel to the rod it screws to.

It is not a robust piece..it doesn't take kindly to being forced in a direction it doesn't want to go.

..which is where the LHT part comes in. Folks that think it's a RHT bend that pin trying to force the nut off the top when turning it the wrong way...and NOT supporting the shaft as Inda mentioned.


Determination that the KIPS is working correctly is a two-step process. With the pipe off, manually activate the kips parts via the nut under the slotted cap on the LH side of the cylinder. Looking into the exhaust port you can see the main flap move up and down and the subport drums rotate/seat correctly.

With the pipe back on and a warmed engine, blip the throttle past the 6KRPM point, observe the movement of that same nut. It should move fully and completely within its limits in both directions.

Oh...you mention removing the clutch cover. That won't get you to the KIPS. The clutch cover is directly over the clutch...it's the piece directly underneath that cover that needs to come off to get to the KIPS....the cover you're kicker shaft goes through.


If you verify the KIPS works OK when the engine is running, you are probably OK.

A possible result of that pin breaking off because it's tweaked? Complete engine destruction.

Not trying to scare 'ya. But, you won't be able to say you didn't know.

There was no force put on the rod so I feel sure that everything is intact...but I just wasn't sure of the chances of having pin (#2) outside of its slot. It easly went back into position with very light effort and it felt like there was only one position for it to be. So I'll assemble it and start it and watch it when reving. After what Ya'll have told me I am fairly confident its fine...if it doesn't at 6K RPM then I'll pull the clutch cover because I am sure from the cylinder side of things its all intact.

[canyncarvr]

Re: 'but I just wasn't sure of the chances of having pin (#2) outside of its slot..

Unlikely. There's really nowhere else for it to go. You might be able to put it in 180º out..but as soon as you put the segmented gear on up top (if it had been off to start with) you'd know it wasn't right.

It's probably fine.

[raisedinal]

It started right up...and I checked with it running and everything moved accordingly! Thanks Ya'll.

Now to go play without having to think if my stock piston is going to implode!

[gtoron]

It only moves when RPM's reach around 6K. That is not a concern.

What is a concern is I am wondering if you supported the shaft under the boot when you disassembled the KIPS gear. There is a flat spot on that shaft where a 8mm wrench fits when you take the gear at the top off. If you didn't, there is a chance that you broke off #2 in your diagram.

I just broke off a #2 and boy did it stink, I also did a little #1