

pinitwot wrote:wow thats a lot cheaper than i thought it would be only like $150
couple quesions:
i would get the standered size piston unless it needs to be bored right? then i would have to get the 1mm over size?
also how would i no how many cc my wrist pin berring is?
217
220
223???
thanks
KDX cylinders are plated..there is no 'boring' in the sense of it being done to cure taper/wear problems. In the case of cylinder damage that does require a bore, the cylinder is replated afterward..usually to original specs unless you're after larger displacement for some reason.
So...yes. You get the 'standard' bore size...considering the thing hasn't been bored to a different size already (unlikely).
Re: 'how would i no how many cc my wrist pin berring is?'
That's easy. The answer is, 'None.'
Honestly, I don't understand the question. There is no 'cc' related to the small end rod bearing. I don't know what the numbers you list refer to, either.
The correct bearing is the one that fits the piston you buy (in this case a Wiseco) and the small rod end.
I don't know this for a fact (I ride a 200 and have used Pro-X pistons in my top-ends) but I'll bet it's safe to assume that the Wiseco piston will fit with an OEM rod bearing. Anyone that knows differnt,
please so say.
For the record...there are those that say the OEM 220 piston is fine unless the bike is considerably modified. There are also those that have deemed the 'Change it or lose it' idea nothing more than an 'internet rumor'.
Both of those points of view are simply wrong. Bone stock 220's have fragged when the piston let loose, and it doesn't necessarily have to be a bike with thousands of hours on it to blow up.
If you value the bike at all..if you expect to ride it at all...the OEM piston has got to come out.
Everyone else that's stated that idea is correct...them's the facts of the matter. Not trying to beat you over the head with a big stick about it...but if you don't get the deficiency straightened out sooner than later, you're asking for it. Sometimes the end result can be resolved with a piston change. Sometimes it destroys the entire engine.
If you want to roll
them dice, you aren't a thinking kind'a guy.
More old hat...the suspension needs to be serviced now (cleaned and greased). NOT doing that will 99.9% of the time result in money spent to replace failed parts 'cuz it wasn't done.
An aside..check that chain slack. The chain appears to be off the slipper in the back..and I don't see a corresponding slack on the bottom to account for that. With the bike on its stand (suspension unloaded) minimum clearance from the swingarm to the bottom of a lifted chain is 2.25" measured at the end of the slipper (chain guide screwed to the swingarm). A too-tight chain will bind the rear suspension.