Hinson Secret!

[canyncarvr]

What makes a Hinson stay together?



It's JIF!

Or...maybe the Jif just happens to be juxtaposed to the clutch?


I decided to not grind the OEM parts into pieces myself..and to take advantage of Mr. Black's expertise in the matter.

As per Ron's usual, turnaround was fast, the work done flawless. No speck of no junk (filings, dirt, oil) anywhere to be found, the screws neatly peened with nary a mark on the basket itself.

Beautiful job...and Thank you!



Uh..is something juxtaposed 'to'? ..or 'with'? Or neither..things are simply juxtaposed. I think that's the nubbin of it!!

[fuzzy]

That's where I shoulda sent mine...

[canyncarvr]

YOU are one of the reasons I sent it up, too!

I was all out of glue anyway!!!

[strider80]

Hmm, care to share what the basket plus Ron's work cost you?

[canyncarvr]

I'm running a special for the rest of the month. Ship your clutch and Hinson basket to me with $100 cash enclosed, and I'll take care of it!..even return-to-you shipping!! Ground of course!!

Just kidding....

I'll not speak for Mr. Black. There were other pieces and parts of things involved that may have impacted the price paid. I don't know what he charges for JUST the basket swap.

The basket came from Fredette as he is the only source these days..he bought every one Hinson had after they stopped making baskets for the KDX. I don't have his bill in front of me..I know the basket was $200. I also got some 'used but good' iso-mounts in case something was wrong with mine. Those were another few bucks. Altogether the basket/parts/ship was in the $225 range.

Which, btw, is about what the OEM basket costs as I recall.

[BlackStormy]

I know I am showing my stupidity here, but what does this part actually do? Is it a weight saving thing, or performance, or both?

[canyncarvr]

There are no stupid questions.

Unless, of course, those questions that are stupid.

Nothing wrong with a plainly asked, want to know question.

Thanks for asking!


I sized the image down considerably...but you can see in the slot of the OEM basket just to the left of the Loctite bottle..the left edge of the finger is bumpy?

That is why you replace it. Over time the OEM basket gets hammered by the tabs on the friction plates..the fingers are damaged. When that happens to a fair amount, you pull the clutch lever and the clutch doesn't 'work' 'cuz the plates won't release past those ridges.

That is a PITA. For one thing, you can't shift into neutral easily when sitting still.

Those basket fingers can be filed flat and the basket reused. I've filed mine already. Obviously the more you file the fingers, the weaker the fingers get AND the farther the plates can move making them WHAM the finger worse.

Hinson having STOPPED making these..and me being unlikely to ever get rid of the KDX...I figured it was time to fix this particular problem.

I didn't weigh the two..don't know if there is a difference or not.

The Hinson is made from billet aluminum and that aluminum of a better grade than the OEM basket. It will not dimple as easily (hopefully not at all...yeah...right...sure...) as the OEM basket.

Also, note the holes in the individual fingers of the Hinson basket? Those holes should aid in oil flow in the clutch. When you pull the clutch lever, even though you release the spring pressure on the plates, there is nothing forcing the plates apart except those plates being forced against the oil in the trans.

..which is why when you try to push the KDX in gear with the engine OFF...it don't work too good. Rock the bike back and forth a bit to break the 'stick' between the steel/friction plates and it will push easier. Not EASY..but easier.

How's that? Clear as mud?

AND...the Hinson will make me a MUCH better rider!!! I know it!!

[fuzzy]

Well if my JB weld fails that's where it's going to go. I wish I never had to bothe rwith it, really...Same situation though my OEM basket was hammered so badly that it would CHATTER HORRIBLY on release. They don't make mine anymore either (I think). Mine came barely used off ebay for $75!

[Jeb]

. . . When you pull the clutch lever, even though you release the spring pressure on the plates, there is nothing forcing the plates apart except those plates being forced against the oil in the trans.

..which is why when you try to push the KDX in gear with the engine OFF...it don't work too good. Rock the bike back and forth a bit to break the 'stick' between the steel/friction plates and it will push easier. Not EASY..but easier . . .

'always good to here the why on these things . . . thanks!

I've not fooled with the clutch on my 220 as of yet but will check things out within the next few months. If I release my clutch lever v-e-r-y slowly and don't give it much throttle, it'll tend to start moving erratically, like a slip-grab-slip-grab kind of a feel. Otherwise everything seems to work fine (doesn't do that under other conditions). Does that indicate a problem or a soon-to-be problem, perhaps finger wear as you've described? Any comments/tips on the filing if it's needed?

[canyncarvr]

Just as the notches will prevent the plates from separating, so they will prevent the plates from smoothly engaging.

Tips:

Protect the inner bushing.

Draw file the fingers. Pushing the file AWAY from you will leave a ridge (gall) on the inside of the finger that is harder to remove than the same ridge on the OUTside. Besides that...you will tend to leave filings OUTside the basket, not in. No big deal..but bits of metal floating around (well, more than usual!!) is something I'd prefer to avoid.

In that vein...clean it up good when you're done!

File the fingers FLAT and SQUARE. I mean 90º on both axes. You want the friction plates to smack up flat against the basket finger. Otherwise, the basket will notch again...sooner than it would if the surfaces were 'flat' one to another.

Shouldn't be...but if your plate tangs are dented, just turn them around on re-install.

Take special note (given an OEM clutch) of the orientation of the large conical spring and its corresponding seat on the outside of the pack!!! It is easier to note how it comes OFF than it is to understand the explanation of how it goes back ON.

Basically large diameter of spring on the OUTside diameter, then the flat, then the hub. Check 5-13 of the manual.


Check the shim under the actuator rod. Maybe you need it (more likely with worn plates)..maybe you don't. That washer is responsible for the position of the lever..and basic geometry tells you that lever must move thru the 90º mark (to the pull axis..the cable) to get the most amount of movement of the actuator rod and thus the most amount of separation of the plates.

If you have any weeping seepage at the seal on top of the clutch cover...might as well replace it whilst you're in there....

[canyncarvr]

Mr. Black said, '..$20-25..' for the basket swap.

Of course, that does not include shipping to/from.

Uh...it doesn't include you rolling your bike into his shop and him taking the clutch out! OR putting it back in, neither!


BTW..put the clutch in last night. Turned the friction plates around for a 'new look' tab-to-basket. Last friction an OEM KDX plate (others XR400 Vesrah) to allow use of the conical spring/seat.

Works slick! Shifting to neutral with the bike not moving and engine running is as easy as with it stopped and NOT running.

Moving the bike in gear, clutch pulled, engine off isn't any easier. Didn't expect it to be. It's good to not be disappointed!

[canyncarvr]

An actual use update:

It works good!

I didn't realize how much of the force required on my clutch lever was due to the basket. The pull is MUCHly reduced with the new basket. Over four days of riding last week, the clutch was flawless.

There is much more effective 'action' of the clutch as a result of available movment of the lever. That was expected...but not to the extent it happened. With the OEM basket I had NO freeplay and still had barely enough movement to effectively free the clutch. Not so on the new basket.

I don't know to what extent the improved clutch action is due to the better oiling of the Hinson (note the slots in the basket tangs? The OEM basket is solid at that point).

Altogether, a very nice improvement. Clutch engagement is nice, too!

I yike it! I yike it a YOT!

[Jeb]

A BTW . . .

I looked at the Hinson website and they DO offer a clutch basket . . . for the 220!

http://www.hinsonracing.com/store/produ ... rod_id=813

. . . meaning it would work in the 200 - right?

[Colorado Mike]

So, I noticed they say that all the magic material and "Akadizing" makes it last 5 times longer than stock , "with proper maintenance" .

What egg sackly is "proper maintenance"? Anything special they want you to do every couple hours of riding time, like tear it down and chrome plate the fingers?

[canyncarvr]

Give 'em a call and see if they really REally have one. They're close by!

Note the copyright date is 2003....


Uh....You DON'T chrome plate your fingers?

[Colorado Mike]

nope.. not chrome, and not my fingers... I'm a Gold Member!!

[canyncarvr]

Does that have a Special Purpose?

..a member being gold and all I mean...........

[GS]

Isn't gold kinda 'soft' ?

[Colorado Mike]

I prefer the term "malleable" . Darn those unfortunate smelting accidents...

[GS]

Ooops
Sorry CM, didn't mean to delve into your degree of malleability, nor the reason for said malleability.