Got her all tore down

[stringburner]

I spent the last two evening tearing down my KDX. It looks mighty sad sitting there on the jack w/ just the engine, frame, and gas tank. I wanted to check all the bearings and grease them up like ya'll said to do. I've worked on cars alot, but I haven't ever done anything as in depth as this on a motorcycle. It came apart pretty easily. The rear suspenson linkage bolts were really tight, but w/ a 6 point socket and a 3/4 deep well socket and extension on the end of the ratchet, they came off pretty easily. That and figuring out how to get the airbox off of it was about the toughest things. I finally loosened the top bolt on the left subrame brace so it would swing down, and then it came right out. Is that about how ya'll do it? I put all the bolts back in the holes so I wouldn't get all flustered when I put it back together. I looked at the bushings on everything, and was wondering what in the world to grease. Then I slid the metal sleeve out of one, and I then discovered all those lovely little needle bearings. So here's the questions.:

What kind of grease should I use?

Do I just rub grease into the needle bearings trying not to disturb them, and slide the sleeve back on?

Do ya'll put a little grease on the shanks of the swingarm bolt, shock bolts, linkage bolts, and axles?

Should I put some sort of loctite (blue or red?) on the threads of the bolts?

Do ya'll put a bead of rvt sealant around the rim where the airbox meets the ruber boot doohickey that connects to the carburetor?

And one real dumb question: What is the proper way to remove the front wheel axle? I took the 4 8mm bolts off the right side leg, then ratcheted the axle out of the other fork leg. I got an ideer there's an easier way.

I need a manual for torque specs obviously. The owners manual shows how to tear the forks to bits, but doesn't show how to remove the front wheel....

I know ya'll know the answers if I can drag 'em out of ya's.

Oh yeah, the swingarm bolt covers appeared to be just held on w/ super glue. That what you fellers use to stick em back on there?

[2001kdx]

i bet mine is bone dry.

[stringburner]

How did you like that PE250? I remember drooling over those when I was too little to ride a full sized bike. Was it oil injected (didn't have to mix the oil w/ the gas)? A friend of mine still has an '81 or so DS250 which is pretty similar. I haven't rode it for years, but I remember it had a pretty good top end on it.

[canyncarvr]

I So here's the questions.:

What kind of grease should I use?

BelRay waterproof. About $4 a tub at your local bike shop.

Do I just rub grease into the needle bearings trying not to disturb them, and slide the sleeve back on?

No. Clean them out first. Brakleen works pretty good. Takes a lot of it. Use a tooth brush and some kero, THEN flush them with Brakleen. Unless your bearings have been replace with aftermarket types, the rollers are caged..won't come out.

The whole knuckle can just be soaked in kero..in a can or something. Packing in new grease without cleaning out the old is not too worthwhile.

Do ya'll put a little grease on the shanks of the swingarm bolt, shock bolts, linkage bolts, and axles?

All that stuff.

Should I put some sort of loctite (blue or red?) on the threads of the bolts?

I loctite most everything...but the steering knuckle should have locking nuts. They wear out after awhile. Maybe replace the nuts every few maintains.

Do ya'll put a bead of rvt sealant around the rim where the airbox meets the ruber boot doohickey that connects to the carburetor?

I don't take mine out. If you use RTV..make it more a film than a bead. Don't want any 'extra' getting into the wrong places. Seems there was a concern some time back about the airbox rubbing at some bolt locations. Check for that.

And one real dumb question: What is the proper way to remove the front wheel axle? I took the 4 8mm bolts off the right side leg, then ratcheted the axle out of the other fork leg. I got an ideer there's an easier way.

What other way would that be? Sounds right. The axle is tight to the LH fork leg..like 65ft/lb (didn't check that spec) tight.

You know how to put that RH cap back on? Tight at the top, gap at the bottom. TIGHTEN TO SPEC ONLY...which ain't much.

Replacement studs ARE available if you break one. If you tighten it right, you won't..break one that is.

I need a manual for torque specs obviously. The owners manual shows how to tear the forks to bits, but doesn't show how to remove the front wheel....

A manual is a very good idea. Very VERY good idea. Inda has a link to an online manual up on top of the page. Something like $15 I think...but I much prefer paper myself.

I know ya'll know the answers if I can drag 'em out of ya's.

Oh yeah, the swingarm bolt covers appeared to be just held on w/ super glue. That what you fellers use to stick em back on there?

I use black RTV.

Pack each seal on reassy.

Be careful with the pull rods. The OEM bolts are a tad short on the shoulder. It's easy to get the bolt shoulder tightened AGAINST the rod as opposed to IN the rod. Then you go for a ride, knock the rods off the bolt shoulder..everything pounds itself into a goober.

[Indawoods]

Speaking of bearings.... I have a lead on some killer industrial bearing treatments that extend bearing life by 300% (Advantage of working at Caterpillar)

The treatment costs about $20 per bearing.

Anyone interested?

When they get dirty... chemically flush.... permanately lubricated guaranteed.

[canyncarvr]

Permanently? You mean 'for the life of the bearing'?

[Indawoods]

Yes...

[canyncarvr]

For the bottom shock mount, that's less than 400 miles!

[stringburner]

Nice reply CC! I appreciate it.

Packing in new grease without cleaning out the old is not too worthwhile.

It's new, but i'll still soak them out, brush 'em w/ brake cleaner, and pack 'em full of new grease.

I loctite most everything...but the steering knuckle should have locking nuts. They wear out after awhile. Maybe replace the nuts every few maintains.

Would ya'll recommend blue or red? I think it's the red that has more holding strength, and is in turn more difficult to remove the bolts it's applied to? the only place I remember locking nuts was on the handlebar clamp bolts (underneath the top clamp). Is that what you refer to as the steering knuckle?

I don't take mine out. If you use RTV..make it more a film than a bead. Don't want any 'extra' getting into the wrong places. Seems there was a concern some time back about the airbox rubbing at some bolt locations. Check for that.

I may use clear silicone if I do seal that area. It stays pliable, and doesn't get brittle where it could end up in the intake tract. I'm not sure where you mean the airbox could be rubbing. I noticed one of the studs connecting the airbox to the carburetor boot was close to the rubber, but otherwise I didn't notice any areas of concern.

You know how to put that RH cap back on? Tight at the top, gap at the bottom. TIGHTEN TO SPEC ONLY...which ain't much.

Nope, didn't know that. I know it doesn't take much torque (they weren't overly tight), and I bet they are pretty easy to snap off.

A manual is a very good idea. Very VERY good idea. Inda has a link to an online manual up on top of the page. Something like $15 I think...but I much prefer paper myself.

I'm torn between that too. Both would be handy. The online version is less expensive, but it would be nice to have it right there w/ the bike where you could study on it. What format is the online manual in? Is it pdf. format, and can you print pages out that you need to drag into the garage w/ you?

Be careful with the pull rods. The OEM bolts are a tad short on the shoulder. It's easy to get the bolt shoulder tightened AGAINST the rod as opposed to IN the rod. Then you go for a ride, knock the rods off the bolt shoulder..everything pounds itself into a goober.

I'm not quite sure what you mean here either. I think you are talking about the linkage on the Uni-Trak (Do they still call it that?). I'll check the online microfiche to see if that's the terminology they are using, so then i'll know what it is you're pointing out to me.

Thanks again. I owe you a beer.

[Indawoods]

Yes you can print what you need... get em dirty? Print em again...
I guess CC can't afford the ink or paper.

[canyncarvr]

Too many quotes too much typing for me..

First off...I can re-read what I type a brazillion times and still miss typos. If something I say doesn't make sense, it's likely due to the maroon what rote it.

Red or blue:

Yep. Red generally is a 'heat or impact' situation for removal. Blue is good for handtools.

Blue it is. Well...I bought a BIG bottle of it (about $30) and use it most everywhere.

I didn't MEAN 'steering' knuckle...but suspension knuckle. Sorry. The Unitrak arm. What the bottom shock bearing is pressed into.

I've had a KX setup on my Devol pullrods for years. That KX setup has nylon lock nuts. I recall the OEM nuts were locking, too. If I am incorrect about that...it wouldn't be the first time..and it won't be the last!

Silicone:

If you don't see a bolt/fastener problem, it's not a problem. The 'close' place you mention I think is where the problem was on some bikes.

Most silicone remains pliable. It's the gasoline bath part of it that I'd be concerned about. 'If some is good, more is better.' does NOT apply to sealants used in the fuel system.

Axle cap:

Yep. Lots of riders break them right off. I can check if you specifically ask (or if I specifically remember), but I recall the spec to be something like 86INCH/lbs. I'd recommend getting a couple of those studs to keep on hand. A Saturday morning bike assembly after a wheel bearing change with a MUCH anticipated ride coming up...and a snapped fork cap stud may be the source of a bad mood, result in the throwing of things and hurting yourself (head bang on wall).

The Kawasaki part # is 172G0622 The pitch and size is on BuyKaw. With that info you can find a suitable stud at your local auto parts store. Napa has 'em. Ask for the 'Metric Stud' department.

Online manual:

I think Inda said it was pdf. I haven't looked at it. Not all pdfs are the same, for sure. If the thing is NOT linked everywhere (click on a subject to go there), it's not a whole lot of good. Adobe Acrobat isn't the fastest thing in the world. If you're not 'up to speed' (Gigs of Hertz and RAM) PC wise it can be painful. Acrobat has its own printer interface that actually works quite well. You CAN inhibit cut-n-paste operations with the publishing side of Adobe. I don't know if the online service manual does that or not.

A book you can write in, make notes of services..get your little smudgy pinky prints all over, THAT's they way to go. My Motor book that I use all the time (well, used to) for info on my '73 Duster gives me warm and fuzzy feelings everytime I reach for its broken back.

Unitrak:

Yes, they do. Yes, I am talking about that.

Consider: The bolt shoulder..the unthreaded shank part of the bolt...is what fits through the sleeve. Exaggerated to make the point, think of that shoulder as being way too LONG. The shoulder would extend through the sleeve AND the pull rod to the point that when you threaded the nut on, the nut couldn't hold the thing together because it would come up against the too-long shoulder. It couldn't SQUEEZE the assy together.

OK. Now, if that shoulder/shank is too SHORT...

You pack the whole think with new grease, including the seals. Stick a bolt through the assy (pull rods and knuckle) and the shoulder/shank won't be long enough to reach THROUGH the pullrod (on the thread end, natch). Threads will poke out, but the bolt shoulder/shank can come up against the inside of the pullrod, not through the pull rod like it's supposed to.

The OEM bolts are indeed long enough to do the job when assembled correctly. It's the 'extra' length you get with the seals full of grease that makes it touchy. Certainly not impossible, not even hard. BUT...if you are not aware of the situation you can properly place the bolt and have it slip out of place during assembly of the other end if you don't pay attention to it.

After all this reading (you did read it, right? ;) ) I'm SURE all your beer is GONE..so you owe yourself one.

...or two...

Cheers!

[Indawoods]

It's not pdf. It is a proprietary interface. A lot quicker than pdf.

Here's a screenshot:

[canyncarvr]

Ink? Paper?

It's the TIME writing all that stuff down..and then I can't READ my own writing...

THAT''S the hassle.

[2001kdx]

How did you like that PE250? I remember drooling over those when I was too little to ride a full sized bike. Was it oil injected (didn't have to mix the oil w/ the gas)? A friend of mine still has an '81 or so DS250 which is pretty similar. I haven't rode it for years, but I remember it had a pretty good top end on it.

Well, the bike was my fathers back when it was brand new. by the time i got to ride it, it was worn out pretty badly. The pe had a decent top end, but really had some bite in the low and mid range, would stand straight up like nothing. Suzuki replaced the pe with the rmx 250. i would really like to ride one of those, to compare.

[stringburner]

Thank you CC, I do believe i'm clear on all your points. You took some time to explain all that for me and i'm grateful. I owe you TWO beers now.

Inda, the online manual format looks nice. I may go w/ that. Reckon it's feasible to download a page or two i'll be needing in the garage, in a reasonable amount of time, on a dial-up connection? Hi-speed has just become available in my area (i.e. the sticks) in the last few weeks, so I may be getting it, but i'm wondering anyways.

[Indawoods]

The pics are 1000% clearer, the explainations are clear and you can blow the pics up.

There are lots of reasons it is better.... as far as your bandwidth issue, I don't know. I haven't had dialup in 6-7 years. Sorry.

[stringburner]

Well, you said it's faster than .pdf, so that's something anyways. I can pick a section and walk away whilst it d/l's I reckon.

[wanaride]

I love computers but there is NO replacement for a manual when you are in the garage. The manual is probably the best $35 I've ever spent. Don't even think about it, just do it and use the online manual as a backup if you need it.

CC, thanks for that description of the bolts in the Uni-Trak "knuckle", I'm in the middle of that job myself and I'll pay attention to the shoulders of those bolts during the reassemble (I hope I did it right the last time.. ).

[Indawoods]

I guess I am too new school for some folks when it comes to printers and detailed information...... Oh well....

[canyncarvr]

The result of having NOT properly assembled the Unitrak is readily apparent.

1. The pull rod holes won't be round anymore. The will have become elongated from getting slammed everytime the rear suspension moved.

2. Lever the back tire off the ground over the kickstand and you will see the slop in the Unitrak as the tire touches/leaves the ground. You will hear it c-l-u-n-k, too.

3. While riding, everytime the rear suspension gets unloaded, you can hear AND feel it.

IF it was not assembled correctly and you've been riding it that way for the last six months without noticing it...you need to be paying more attention!