KIPS question

[canyncarvr]

The RH subport drum activating rod has a groove in it for 'packing'.

That 'part' (stuff, whatever it is) is not listed AS a part that I have found. A new rod comes without any packing on/in it.

Is this like a fork axle clamp stud? Available if you know the magic number, but not listed anywhere?

I don't think an o-ring would survive.

I doubt packing string from the plumbing supply store is what they have in mind.

So..how do you pack YOUR rod?

Surely everyone repacks the RH rod on a regular preventive maintenance basis....

[RBD]

CC

I might be wrong, but I think the groove is for identification purposes only. This way you know which one is the RH and which is the LH

Ron

[canyncarvr]

There is some sealing material in that groove.

It's on my OEM rod, it's NOT on the new rod.

BuyKawi does note it as 'packing'.

They aren't at all helpful as to what it IS...

Well. It's packing I guess!


OK. This is creepy.

I've looked this part up a few times. It was NOT there.

BuyKawi has a new application running the parts views? NOW it's there!! Crappers..I anwered my own question.

43049 43049-1076
PACKING

Ron Ayers has it for $2.12

If I would'a HAD that number I would have ordered it with the KIPS stuff in the FIRST place!

...criminy.......

[Ryan]

[Colorado Mike]

That site drives me nuts sometimes. A couple days ago, they had no idea that Kawasaki made a 250cc 4-stroke MX bike.

[canyncarvr]

A 4-stroke what?

You're kidding!!

BTW, it didn't excape me that if RonAyers has it, and their site is running the same stuff they always have...buykawi prolly had it, too!

Me and looking for stuff are NOT friends!!

[KarlP]

CC
Let us know how it goes replacing that packing, and I imagine smoothing the bore that rod runs in. Mine has been messed up ever since I had a replate done and that bore was not masked off and therefore pickled.(?).

[canyncarvr]

That's part of the problem. My cylinder also has been messed up since I had it replated.

It's not going to be this week (or likely next) but when I do send it to Langcourt I plan on pointing that rod bore out, and will be putting in a new rod and packing in when I get it back.

[TopperHarley]

I got my 03 220R cylinder back from US Chrome a few weeks ago and reassembled it. The bores for the subvalve activating rods seemed to be fine. The old packing on the right rod was in good shape so I just reused it. The paciking is just a little o-ring with a groove in the outer edge to hold some high temp grease. It helps to keep spooge from coming out and dripping down the boot on the right where the main KIPS activator rod ties into the cylinder. The other side does not need one because it is sealed by way of the left main shaft oil seal. I had a talk with Moose racing the other day about including that packing in their top end gasket set. We'll have to see how that goes.

[canyncarvr]

Maybe they are not all the same..but mine wasn't an o-ring. Something flat and fibrous looking...wasn't going to accomplish a whole lot.

I know what it was. It was packing!

What was the appearance of your bore? Smooth like it was when you sent it in? Shotblasted looking. I've got some pics of my USC bore when I got it back. Looks nasty.

I suppose it would have worked OK if the bore had been round. Like I said, places other than the pin axis sealed fine. Not a speck of carbon below even the first ring.

I'll get the OEM sealer-doo-wah for the next time I bolt on my FRP jug. I am curious how it will run when it's sealed like it should be.

There wasn't anything...o-ring or packing that was going to keep the spoo out of my exhaust with that egg-shaped hole.

Well...maybe some JBWeld would've worked.........

Good luck on your cylinder!

[Green Hornet]

"So..how do you pack YOUR rod"

BVD Boxers

[KarlP]

Fruit of the Loom briefs.

CC-
We are talking about the same bore, I am sure:

"I suppose it would have worked OK if the bore had been round. Like I said, places other than the pin axis sealed fine. Not a speck of carbon below even the first ring.

I'll get the OEM sealer-doo-wah for the next time I bolt on my FRP jug. I am curious how it will run when it's sealed like it should be.

There wasn't anything...o-ring or packing that was going to keep the spoo out of my exhaust with that egg-shaped hole. "

The right hand subort activating shaft bore was EGGSHAPED? How do you fix that?
Mine looked like it had been sandblasted with fairly coarse sand. I didn't pay it a lot of attention and reassembled everything anyway. I noted the slightly sticky actuation of the KIPS valve assembly and tracked it to the rod for the RH subport hanging up in its bore. I figured it would loosen up after some use.
My rod is still as sticky as ever, boxers or briefs.

Karl

[canyncarvr]

Sorry, no. The piston hole.

That's not too apparent, is it. Not even to me (and I wrote it) when I read it now.

The out-of-round piston hole allowed a lot of blow-by. That accumulated oil in the bottom end AND preheated the intake charge. The result was considerable detonation and a plug that looked scary lean....all the while spattering spoo out the silencer, the KIPS holes (every place there is access to 'outside'), the pipe/cylinder joint etc. etc.

So...regardless of what type of sealer (o-ring or packing) was used on the activating rod, or NO seal whatsoever, it wouldn't have mattered considering the shape of the piston hole.

[Indawoods]

CC... have you mic'd that cylinder to verify that it is out of round?

[canyncarvr]

It has not been bore-gauge checked.

Whatever it is now doesn't have anything to do with what it was then (when installed) anyway.

Maybe the rings didn't seat on the pin-axis due to break-in procedure failure...I didn't hold the throttle at the pin-axis spot long enough or at the right time....

It could happen.

The piston has the facts straight.

[skipro3]

CC, I think you hyjacked your own thread. But since you are on the topic of bad bores, I wonder; If a bike starts gradually spewing spooge, would that be sign it's in need of a top end, or at least a ring job? Also, would the extra oil down in the lower end cause an early failure of the crank seal? Just throwing out ideas.