Stator wiring confusion

[kdxsully]

I’m back. Unfortunately.

So, I couldn’t get the bike started. New plug, has gas, clean carb, has compression. I did start it once with the old plug, and even though my kickstarter was slipping, it started and ran fine. All that’s happened since then is I pulled my flywheel and stator for a once over. Triple checked the timing lines and that I was still on the keyway. Torqued the flywheel bolt to the spec’d 20 ft lbs.

Anyways. My manual says I should have black, white/red, and yellow wires coming from my stator.

I’ve got yellow, white/black, blue/red, and what looks like black/yellow or black/white. I can’t exactly tell the last color, maybe tomorrow I can tell in the daylight.

Yellow wire was unused with electrical tape on the end. Blue/red (edited) was connected to the yellow cable that goes to the light switch. White/black (edited typo) went to white/red in my connector, and black/white (edited)went to black in my connector.

Sorry about the edits. Totally goofed that up.

My question is, is it possible to identify this stator from these wire colors? I’m looking to test the resistance and if these wire colors aren’t consistent with my manual I’m afraid I probably don’t have the right figures.

It’s an 84 motor in an 87 frame. The flywheel has 4 magnets, but I have an 84 flywheel with 3 magnets. Is this an 87 flywheel coupled with an 84 stator? I am confusion.

Thanks for any help. I wanted to get on the trail this weekend!

Im probably gonna record some figures anyways.

[bufftester]

The yellow wire went to the lighting switch for head/tail lamps. the other three go to the CDI and should pass through a connector on their way there. Check all your grounds and connections well. You say the bike ran fine before you took the flywheel off?

[kdxsully]

The yellow wire went to the lighting switch for head/tail lamps. the other three go to the CDI and should pass through a connector on their way there. Check all your grounds and connections well. You say the bike ran fine before you took the flywheel off?

the lighting switch was connected to my blue and red wire, and yesterday I did test the bullet connectors for continuity because I wanted to make sure the light would work if I hooked one up. I currently don’t have any lights on this bike. I did get a reading from that.

And yes, it ran fine before I took the flywheel off and changed the spark plug. I did replace the spark plug with a B8ES, which what was in there. I’m gonna write everything down tomorrow.

[KDXGarage]

87 has four magnets.

[bufftester]

If you have the flywheel off you can see what color wires are coming from the lighting coil and the exciter/trigger coils. The other would be to follow the wires out of the case and up to the CDI. There should be 3 running to the CDI, and the 4th is your lighting power. Also make sure that all your grounds a re very clean and tight, as well as the connections at all the junctions.

[kdxsully]

If you have the flywheel off you can see what color wires are coming from the lighting coil and the exciter/trigger coils. The other would be to follow the wires out of the case and up to the CDI. There should be 3 running to the CDI, and the 4th is your lighting power. Also make sure that all your grounds a re very clean and tight, as well as the connections at all the junctions.

Really appreciate the response. I’ve sanded my grounds down, and ran some tests from my stator loom.

White to black - 146.3
Yellow to black - .7
Blue to black - 106.7
White to blue - 39.7

Primary coil - .7
Secondary coil - 6.16k

I’ll have to go to the store and borrow their puller again to take off my flywheel and see what’s what.

Also, I managed to find Jaguar’s website about these KDX CDI’s. In there he says you can’t test the resistance in these boxes because of the diodes and whatnot? I guess only the special Kawasaki tester can do it? He says just kick the bike while holding a couple leads to see if it shocks you

In the meantime I’m gonna see if there’s anything useful in the picture I took of my stator when I had the flywheel off.

Oh yeah, how do those figures look? My connector to the cdi input only has 2 connectors, white/red and black. I guess the black/yellow wire was for the computer/trip meter or something?

Update: from the picture I found on my phone, it’s looks like there’s a blue wire and white/red wire coming from the top source coil. But there’s no white/red at the top of the loom??

[KDXGarage]

On the 1986 - 1988 stator, the 1986 manual shows Yellow, Blue, Black and Red/White.

Yellow goes to the light switch.

Blue, Black and Red/White go to the CDI.

Black/White goes from the CDI to the kill switch.

Black goes from the CDI to ground.

Green/White goes from the CDI to the ignition coil.

Black goes from the kill switch to ground.

Red goes from the light switch to the headlight and taillight.

Black from the headlight goes to ground.

Black / Yellow from the taillight goes to ground.

Blue from the taillight looks to go nowhere??

[kdxsully]

On the 1986 - 1988 stator, the 1986 manual shows Yellow, Blue, Black and Red/White.

Yellow goes to the light switch.

Blue, Black and Red/White go to the CDI.

Black/White goes from the CDI to the kill switch.

Black goes from the CDI to ground.

Green/White goes from the CDI to the ignition coil.

Black goes from the kill switch to ground.

Red goes from the light switch to the headlight and taillight.

Black from the headlight goes to ground.

Black / Yellow from the taillight goes to ground.

Blue from the taillight looks to go nowhere??

Well, I’ve solved my wiring color dilemma. Turns out about halfway up the loom the wires were cut and PO just spliced in their own wires with heat shrink. White went to white, etc.

I googled some stators and saw the cdi connectors with three prongs, but my manual (for a C3) shows just two, white/red and black. And that’s what my bike has, a two prong connector.

The picture I took of my stator shows blue and white/red coming from my source coil, and the resistance between white/red and black was, what, 140 something? (Coming from memory)

Think my stator needs a rewind? It was fine before, but I hear these things either work or they don’t.

[kdxsully]

JAGUARRRRR!!!!!!

It bloody worked. I tested the CDI by holding green/white and ground, and pumped away at the kick with the spark plug out, and it shocked me. Scared the **** out of me hahaha

I also tested AC voltage while kicking, and got a max of around 19v, Jaguar’s website says I should get up to around 30v.

So, ignition coil is good, cdi is good, grounds have been sanded, new plug, so I guess there’s only one thing left.

And I should’ve seen it from the start when I took my readings, but since it was running so recently and wanted to rule everything out before dumping more money into this, I’ve been in denial.

The most common problem: stator.

Speaking of which, I was worried about not having specs to compare to, but I realized RM Stator makes a replacement for 83-88, so they must be similar.

If I had to theorize, I’d say when I pulled my flywheel that shocked the stator enough to cause a short?

Thanks for the help and answers, guys. Without this forum, the best vintage trail bikes ever made would be getting put to rest.

EDIT: being the persistent person I am, I got some blue sparks. Can’t tell if it’s too weak or not, I’m not adept at motorcycle electrics. I went ahead and ordered the coils, since my readings are telling me the coil needs to be replaced. In the meantime I’m gonna see if she’ll start.

EDIT TO THE EDIT: I did that spark plug test with the old plug I took out. The new one I put in didn’t spark. Got another new one out of my goodie box, sparked.

[KDXGarage]

So it's working now??

[kdxsully]

So it's working now??

Of course not.

To elaborate, yes, I'm getting sparks.

But, the bike won't start. I'm guessing either the spark isn't significant enough or it's not sparking under compression at all.

I think I'll triple check for air leaks, too. My air boots are dry rotted and held up with silicone right now. $175 for those can wait.

[KDXGarage]

Yes, running can come before "running right".

[kdxsully]

So I removed my air box and carb for inspection (you just never know) and also took my reed cage out. My first new plug had gas on it, so I know I’ve been getting fuel, and the reed cage is soaked in gas too. However,



I’m gonna see if I can flip this one over. I’m not sure if this can make a non running condition, but we’ll see.

While I’m at it I want to inspect my cylinder and piston. I didn’t see any blow by on the exhaust side when working on the bike before, nor any score marks, so points for me. Let’s see how this side looks. I could’ve just taken the head off before, but oh well.

The reeds themselves look good. Gonna get cracking (no pun intended) on these pathetic air boots..

[kdxsully]

Well, gentlemen (and ladies if there is any watching).

I got it started after blowing out the jets. I think there was something stuck in it, couldn’t really tell. Might have been a crumble off of the new fuel lines from when I cut them.

Kicked it like 20 times, nothing. Then I started hearing some signs of life. This is after I re-siliconed my air boot, by the way. I put a tad of oil in the cylinder to keep it lubed while I messed with the Kickstarter and whatnot.

Really boggy at first, kept throttling to burn off the oil, and then the old man cleared his throat.

After it warmed up, I shut it down, and it started third kick. Looks like old whomper is back.

Always something stupid.

Anyways, I thought the exhaust was leaking because of smoke, but I think I am running lean. The cylinder and exhaust has some smoke coming off of them after running for like 5-10 mins, and just took a couple 1st and 2nd gear runs around.

20 pilot, 310 main. I think Jeff Fredette recommends 35 pilot, 280 main on these 84s. That seems like quite a jump. Should I go for it or step up?

[bufftester]

A 20 PJ sounds awfully lean and would account for stumbling off idle and excessive heat on the pipe. IIWM I'd go with the OEM sizes and work from there. Wasn't aware you had done anything on the fuel system since you led off with the stator issue, but a plugged jet will keep it from running. FWIW those readings look about normal for the wiring, so I'd say your stator is likely fine.

[kdxsully]

A 20 PJ sounds awfully lean and would account for stumbling off idle and excessive heat on the pipe. IIWM I'd go with the OEM sizes and work from there. Wasn't aware you had done anything on the fuel system since you led off with the stator issue, but a plugged jet will keep it from running. FWIW those readings look about normal for the wiring, so I'd say your stator is likely fine.

I thought the same about my readings, but I was running out of ideas. I read sometimes stators go bad even when you get good readings (although I was still able to produce spark).

I think the 87 came with a 25 pilot stock (correct me if I'm wrong), and a PO went down to 20. THEN... something happened that required a new motor, and the jetting was never changed.

I'm googling for the stock jetting on an 84 motor, looks like 40/260? I'm looking at the carb diagram on partzilla, all of the other jets say (OPTION).

Feel like I dragged bufftester and KDXGarage through some mud on this one. This forum is awesome

[KDXGarage]

I am glad it is running!

The jets that don't say option ARE the original jets.

[kdxsully]

I am glad it is running!

The jets that don't say option ARE the original jets.

Thanks, me too. Just needed a little AHEM!

Thanks for the heads up on that. I'm gonna fire it up again and really let it warm up to confirm, but that piston sounds like it's slapping. All of sudden I wish I had that KIPS

Does a slapping piston normally require a replate too? I'm gonna be taking the cylinder off this week anyways I'm sure.

[KDXGarage]

Just wait until it is all apart before worrying too much.

At least you know it's not the power valve system or the cooling system. :-)

[kdxsully]

Just wait until it is all apart before worrying too much.

At least you know it's not the power valve system or the cooling system. :-)

I'd rather it be either of those than the bottom end.

But, we'll see. Fingers crossed.