Finishing my E4 resto

[ToXic]

Hey guys, it has been a while since my last post but I have been slowly finishing restoring my low-mileage-but-in-need-of-overhaul 1992 KDX 200 E4.
It has been hard work getting everything but the bottom end dismantled, cleaned, sprayed if that is the case, restored, replaced or repaired to stock spec (except brake lines and handlebar!).
Got the bike running since a long time ago this weekend, and it started on the 3rd kick :)
Only 2 issues found, the carb overflow tube was spilling gas faster than ever, so I have to take it apart again and check the float level (only thing I did not check, damn), all other components had absolutely no wear. The other thing was that the stock exhaust was leaking 2 stroke oil like these things usually do, through the unions and screw holes... last time I used engine sealant everywhere on this muffler. Do you guys have any better trick to do the job? And yes, I used all stock packings as per the manual. And yes, still need to get new screw packings, the ones I used are too big.
Here are some pics of the said muffler, and of my bike performing the engine tests :D
Will post more of the whole endeavour soon!
Can't wait to have it at 100% and ride it again :D

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[KDXGarage]

Dang! Looks nice.

Check the float valve rubber tip. It's 27 years old.

[SS109]

Sweet! I really miss the E-series silencers. IMO, the best silencer design ever!

[ToXic]

Thanks Jason, will sure keep an eye out when I take the carb apart again.

Dang! Looks nice.

Check the float valve rubber tip. It's 27 years old.

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[ToXic]

Sweet! I really miss the E-series silencers. IMO, the best silencer design ever!

It is a great and practical design, it is easy to replace the packing/wool, but leaks oil as hell! As I am short of new ideas, I will pour sealant on every possible hole or union - can't stand my fresh plastics and paint job stained with that mucky oil [emoji14]
The old rear brake white plastic guard had had so much of the oil dripping that it was left too stained to clean off...

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[KDXGarage]

Yes, seal it up.

[SS109]

I use high temp rtv on all my silencers. Even put it on the bolts and rivets to make sure they don't weep.

[ToXic]

Not the best looking part of the bike now, but the RTV should seal everything at the muffler end, hopefully...

Checked the carb float height, it was within spec at 16mm, took it to 18mm just to make sure it would close the valve. Valve had no apparent wear, piston spring was working. But after connecting the fuel line again, it continued to leak from the overflow tube, damn :(

Thinking of getting the All Balls Carb Rebuild Kit, has anyone tried it?
Some of their products are OK, some are **** (swingarm bearings a good example).

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[SS109]

Just dealt with this same problem not long ago. It probably has corrosion on the needle seat from ethanol gas. I took some Brasso brass cleaner (any brass polish should work) and polished the seat using Q-tips. I put a Q-tip in a cordless drill, dipped the tip in a little Brasso, and then started polishing the seat. It took me about 12 Q-tips. Just make sure to clean the carb really well after polishing. I haven't had a problem since with the carb pissing.

On RTV'ing the silencer, the end in your pic, I would run a 1/4" bead around the inlet tube before sliding it in the aluminum tube. This allows it to squeeze behind and through the opening completely sealing it from causing leak. Then I would put a dab (pea sized) of RTV on each screw and screw them in. Wipe any excess off and let it sit for 24 hours before using. It'll have a cleaner look and you'll have no more leaks. Also, I can't stress it enough to use the high temp RTV that comes in normally orange or red tubes.

[ToXic]

Just dealt with this same problem not long ago. It probably has corrosion on the needle seat from ethanol gas. I took some Brasso brass cleaner (any brass polish should work) and polished the seat using Q-tips. I put a Q-tip in a cordless drill, dipped the tip in a little Brasso, and then started polishing the seat. It took me about 12 Q-tips. Just make sure to clean the carb really well after polishing. I haven't had a problem since with the carb pissing.

On RTV'ing the silencer, the end in your pic, I would run a 1/4" bead around the inlet tube before sliding it in the aluminum tube. This allows it to squeeze behind and through the opening completely sealing it from causing leak. Then I would put a dab (pea sized) of RTV on each screw and screw them in. Wipe any excess off and let it sit for 24 hours before using. It'll have a cleaner look and you'll have no more leaks. Also, I can't stress it enough to use the high temp RTV that comes in normally orange or red tubes.

Great advice :)
I will see that through, and maybe get that Carb Rebuild Kit..
Muffler side, I did all that you said plus what you see in that picture with the high temp RTV. I really hate that oil dripping everywhere, so there is no such thing as too much sealant in my book, haha.

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