KDX 220 Top End Tear Down Assement help - Lots of Pictures!

MaineKDX · Post by **MaineKDX** » 06:45 pm May 28 2017

So I just got most of the tear down (still need to remove all of the KIPS) on my top end. Having NEVER done this before I thought I would throw up some picture and see what the hive has to say. Before I begin the re-assembly I would appreciate some insight from some more experienced mechanics.

On the upper right side does it look like any metal is missing or just part of casting?

To rich?

Looks Clean to me...?

What is causing the white oxidization? Planned to remove with an oiled brass brush. Then wipe with a little bel-ray assembly lube?

How do I get the KIPS shaft out of the way? I worked around it but the CYCLEPEDIA manual didnt discuss removing it and not sure where to look. I wont be able to torque the head back on without it.

MaineKDX · Post by **MaineKDX** » 06:51 pm May 28 2017

Checked the connecting rod. Side to side play, which I understand is OK. Didnt feel any up and down play. I held the rod to the side to eliminate side to side play and tried to move up and down. Didnt feel anything before it started to move the crank.

ohgood · Post by **ohgood** » 07:34 pm May 28 2017

You can get to the cylinder nuts, and feel of one torqued nut to compare. Otherwise you have to remove the clutch side case cover.

Your piston, cylinder, and head look great. Just soak in pbblaster or kroil to remove carbon. You want to soak your power and sub valves also to remove their carbon.

Reassemble with 2t oil and make sure everything moves smoothly without resistance.

I would use a new piston/rings/wrist pin/bearing and circlips.

That cylinder really does look good.

ohgood · Post by **ohgood** » 07:36 pm May 28 2017

Oh I meant to mention, when you reassemble the clutch side cover, be careful not to stress/break the kips pin that runs in the centrifugal section on that case. Easy does it !

javjacob · Post by **javjacob** » 12:46 am May 29 2017

I would get a Wiseco piston since that one looks like a stock piston which is cast aluminum and are notorious for coming apart.

MaineKDX · Post by **MaineKDX** » 07:38 am May 29 2017

Thanks for the feedback. Have a complete wiseco top end kit ready to go in after cleaning sitting on my bench!

doakley · Post by **doakley** » 08:24 am May 29 2017

the white deposits are exactly what you expected, oxidation residue. Clean the studs thoroughly and be certain you have some antiseize on them when you reassemble. Studs are probably fine but check for metal loss due to corrosion. I agree about the cyl and head. Just clean them well. I also agree with the new Wiseco top end. I'd prefer to KNOW what's in there rather than take a chance.

John_S · Post by **John_S** » 12:37 pm May 29 2017

doakley wrote:the white deposits are exactly what you expected, oxidation residue. Clean the studs thoroughly and be certain you have some antiseize on them when you reassemble. Studs are probably fine but check for metal loss due to corrosion. I agree about the cyl and head. Just clean them well. I also agree with the new Wiseco top end. I'd prefer to KNOW what's in there rather than take a chance.

Great advice. Use a green scotchbite pad to clean the bore and head. You need a Motion Pro torque wrench adapter to torque any of the cylinder bolts. You can still get to the tough one by the kips shaft with the right side cover in place. You need to tilt the wrench up just a bit. Its not fun but I've torqued that nut twice without removing the cover.

6 Riders · Post by **6 Riders** » 08:46 pm May 29 2017

And your bike is pig rich...that's why all the carbon on the piston and head.

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doakley · Post by **doakley** » 05:58 am May 30 2017

LOL! Agree with the "pig rich" comment! After you get the new top in broken in, follow the jetting guide and get that thing jetted properly.

MaineKDX · Post by **MaineKDX** » 10:15 pm May 30 2017

So I just checked the carb and it was set up to match the FMF starting point.

MJ: 145
PJ: 42
Needle: R1173L
Clip: 3rd
Air Screw: 1.5 (May have been slightly higher but it was in that ballpark)

I know the previous owner ran 40:1 and BR9ES Plug. I plan on running Spectro Platinum SX2 at 32:1 with a BR8ES plug which should help lean the starting point a bit. Once I get it broken in ill start fiddling.

Post by **Tyl3r** » 11:16 am May 31 2017

MaineKDX wrote:Thanks for the feedback. Have a complete wiseco top end kit ready to go in after cleaning sitting on my bench!

Glad to see this! haha when I was scrolling thru the pictures just now, I wanted to comment "GRAB THAT PISTON, AND SLAM IT IN THE TRASH!"

MaineKDX · Post by **MaineKDX** » 01:19 pm May 31 2017

My father in law who has a mint 2003 thought I was being foolish to redo the top end. He still has the stock one with no issue. Cheap insurance for me on a highly sought after and hard to find (in good condition) bike here in Maine.

Post by **Tyl3r** » 02:24 pm May 31 2017

If he has an 03 220 that has the stock piston in it, then either it never gets rode, or maybe he is the lucky 1 in 10000 that got an oddball good cast piston lol

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