Need some engine advice on the 1993 kdx200

Bonno · Post by **Bonno** » 11:51 pm Sep 21 2016

I figured it was easier to make a video. Got some piston questions. Maybe some case splitting advice. I'll have to look before I go any further if I have to split the case to change this seal.

Bonno · Post by **Bonno** » 12:41 am Sep 22 2016

(Specification for clutch friction disc thickness Service Limit is no less than 2.7 mm or .106 inches)

I was .113 thousands so im 7 thousands above spec, should i change plates or is that a lot, just asking because its apart now!

Post by **KDXGarage** » 11:49 am Sep 22 2016

What is stock thickness?

Bonno · Post by **Bonno** » 12:02 pm Sep 22 2016

Manual don't say what stock thickness is

david · Post by **david** » 02:11 pm Sep 22 2016

.007 isn't very thick. I would change them while you're in there.

I think .005-.011 would be your usable range, so you are at the lower end of the clutch's life.

TheGriz · Post by **TheGriz** » 09:45 pm Sep 22 2016

Whenever a seller tells me that the bike just had a "top end" done, I take it with a grain of salt, unless they show me receipts or I know some history on the bike from a friend.

Can you take a picture of the top of the piston? You should be able to tell right away if it is a stock piston. If it were me, I'd lightly run a hone through the cylinder and see how it cleans up. Buying a new piston/ring for ~$100 is cheap insurance.

I'd check for play in the rod bearing/crank. Lateral movement is ok, but if you have any movement vertically, either in the rod bearing or at the outside crank bearings, you should get the crank rebuilt while you have the engine apart.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 10:38 pm Sep 22 2016

E series left side apparent crankcase oil eal leak may be from three recessed areas. I just posted about this a couple of weeks ago. Search back for a read on it.

Bonno · Post by **Bonno** » 08:44 pm Sep 26 2016

Ended up getting the case split and reassembled. Had to make a a tool to press the case halves together. The main bearing came off on the crank. Everthing seems to work fine. Road it to town and it seems to work fine. No oil leaks.

Post by **Julien D** » 09:24 pm Sep 26 2016

You know you have to split it and do the bottom end. That's a given. As far as you have it, it's not much more work. That cylinder looks pretty great as far as the video shows. You can use scotchbrite and lube or some careful attention with muriatic acid to get those aluminum scuffs off. As for the clutch, stitch it back up and see if the clutch slips when you ride. It's much easier to get back into the clutch. All you really need to pull is the outer cover. It it works for you for a while, then great.

KDXRIDER.NET

KDXRIDER.NET