A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 12:16 pm Sep 19 2016

Thought you'd say that. Ok so what could have changed when the case went on?
Wait, are you able to rotate the engine a little when trying to shift?

"Good job, guys. "

Dekon · Post by **Dekon** » 03:11 pm Sep 19 2016

Is the shift drum in properly? Make sure the neutral detent is in the little spring loaded wheel(Forgot what it's called) in the right hand side of the case when putting the cases back together, made the job a whole easier. It was a tip I got from the members here.

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 03:13 pm Sep 19 2016

Looks like he did that, as the video above shows him trying to shift out of neutral without success.

"Good job, guys. "

Dekon · Post by **Dekon** » 03:14 pm Sep 19 2016

Are you sure it is in neutral? I did the same thing when I split my cases, the bike was in 6th gear and I could not shift it.

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 04:00 pm Sep 19 2016

so I removed the fly wheel the coil and everything else I already assembled and split the cases again. It seems that I went a little heavy on the case sealer and some dripped down on the gears and selector forks and had stuck them together so they wouldn't slide freely. Another lesson learned the hard way.

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Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 04:03 pm Sep 19 2016

Oh geez. Thanks for documenting this and saving us from ourselves!

"Good job, guys. "

Dekon · Post by **Dekon** » 04:26 pm Sep 19 2016

Glad you figured it out.

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 04:29 pm Sep 19 2016

Now to clean up the sealer and do this all again.

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ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 06:38 pm Sep 19 2016

5th times a charm

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ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 06:43 pm Sep 19 2016

However the kdx continues to fight me with every step clutch spring holder bolt snapped. I was using my digital torque wrench set to the specified torque spec. And it just went ping. Somehow I was able to get the threaded portion Of the bolt out. Does anyone have a part number for that bolt so I can order it.

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Post by **KDXGarage** » 11:22 pm Sep 19 2016

WOW! You are fighting the good fight!

Just look on the parts diagrams online for the correct part number.

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 09:17 am Sep 20 2016

So I called new England cycle works. My closest kawi dealer. They said that bolt was part number was superceded by part number 112ba0622. I ordered 4 just to be safe. 12 dollars should be here by the weekend or monday.

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ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 09:23 am Sep 20 2016

This is the part number I ordered. 112ba0622. I could have ordered from this site but I already placed the order with kawasaki. Would have been about the same price or a little more with shipping. But would have gotten to me faster.

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Post by **KDXGarage** » 09:27 am Sep 20 2016

6 mm x 22 mm

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 11:08 am Sep 20 2016

M6 bolts are easy to break. I won't torque them over 8 ft lbs.

"Good job, guys. "

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 11:22 am Sep 20 2016

I was tightening them down to 78 inch pounds as per the manual. Which is 6.5 foot pounds.

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Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 11:31 am Sep 20 2016

There's an m6 shoulder bolt on the dr350 that the manual says to torque to 15lb ft. Notorious for snapping off.

"Good job, guys. "

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 08:59 pm Sep 23 2016

https://vimeo.com/184079637 is it normal to have play in the clutch plates after the clutch nut has been tightened. Before the clutch springs are tight?

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Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 09:17 pm Sep 23 2016

Yeah, they need room to separate when clutch is disengaged. I don't know how much play they should have, but with the springs on they'll snug right up.

"Good job, guys. "

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 10:08 pm Sep 23 2016

This motor is cursed.

I don't know why it even cracked because the shifter seems to be all the way in.

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