
Looking forward to seeing your build and thanks again for all the help.

You're the man! I have a whole list of parts, so if you need something someday, just hit me up.s10gto wrote:Parts on the way Mayor! You should have them wed.
Will do! ThanksMayor Brap Brap wrote:You're the man! I have a whole list of parts, so if you need something someday, just hit me up.s10gto wrote:Parts on the way Mayor! You should have them wed.
Thanks man! It runs like a champ, but I still could use some more kick down low. I noticed this when I traded with my friend, who has a 220. That thing propels you the second you twist the throttle while I feel like the 200 has better mid and top end power. Did your gearing change help with more low end grunt?s10gto wrote:Now that is SWEET! Nice Work Mayor!How do you like the gearing? looks like you got 13/47 still. I started with 13/45 and it was ok ,but she was wound up pretty tight @ 50 with the power valve trying to open. Switched to 14/45 and she is perfect.
Still plenty of bottom end in the woods.
With everything being LED, it's almost like the battery is too big. I can keep the lights on for quite a long time after the bike is shut off. The battery is 3.2 or 3.5A and the total demand is probably between 30 and 40W, though that's if I use multiple lights at once (turns, brake, high beam, etc.) it's all probably closer to 30W.mercadom wrote:Hi Mayor, The Bike looks great !
Thank you for all the good info about adding the LEAD Acid Battery to the DC lighting system. I was wondering if you can give us some real live result on how this set-up is working out and how is the battery holding up in relation to the demand ? I would like to do this very setup, but I am not sure what proper size (Amp rating) to get. I plan to run 85watt Rick's lightning coil, I am forecasting approx. 40~50 watts total demand between Headlight bulb LED (Cyclops 3600) @ 20w low /30w high, LED Turn, LED Tail/Stop and Horn and possible adding a VAPOR later on .... Thanks !
Honestly, I haven't tested the length of time, but I know that when I was working on the wiring all winter, I never charged it. I was constantly testing the lights, horn, etc. with the bike off and it always had power. When we stop on a trail for five to 10 minutes and I've left my lights on, they are always still on and there's plenty of power.mercadom wrote:Thanks for the quick response! That is exactly what I want to accomplish, to use the battery to run the lights for a reasonable long amount of time so that I can pass DMV inspection, I am plating my bike in Connecticut…
I also want to make the best possible use of the DC system by properly balancing the Charging capacity vs. demand vs. unused “Surface Charge” once the battery is completely charged. I don’t want to get to small of a battery where it will be top off to quickly during the day (due to headlight off to preserve bulb life) and then the excess “surface charge” from the coil gets shorted out to ground via the Reg/Rec which will increase heat at Reg/Rec and will reduced its lifespan, I think.
Few more questions:
How long can your battery run your headlight and tail (not brake) with the bike off, mins or hrs ?
Do you have any other accessories like a vapor or a backlight for your speedo (if you have one).?
How hot does your Reg/Rec run ?
Do you run your headlight on all the time while riding ?
I came across this informative video which helped me understand the basic concepts of the DC system and how it works, and at what point the battery comes into play… Hope it will helps other.
Thanks !!
Hey I'm trying to do the same thing and can't seem to get it to work, I've got 3 wires from my headlight a brown ground, a white and blue, I've tried connecting the brown ground to the black turn signal ground and running the black headlight main power to the red wire for the front brake switch for power and then connecting the headlight wires up....nothing..... Any ideas? Am I using the right wire from the brake switch? Thanks!Mayor Brap Brap wrote:I figured it out! There are two stable power leads at the front of the Tusk harness––the brake light switch and the horn. I went with the brake light switch because there was more room. I added a 3-way connector in place of its single connector. This allows me to connect the headlight main and Vapor + when I install it.
I replaced the blinker ground dual connector with a 3-way, then made a lead coming off that with a two-way connector. This way both blinkers, headlight negative, and Vapor - can connect.
Headlight works without any trouble, as does everything else. Now I have to wait for the Polisport Halo to come in from Germany (Europeans get the green ones), and some day the Vapor.