broke it

bronco95tgp · Post by **bronco95tgp** » 02:08 pm Nov 05 2005

well I put the strong arm on, and i broke it, check out the pictures, I have no clue what I am going to do about this....

m0rie · Post by **m0rie** » 02:12 pm Nov 05 2005

I think those are just press in studs. You should be able to remove it somehow and replace it with another stud. Somebody else with some actual knowledge will chime in soon though i'm sure.

bronco95tgp · Post by **bronco95tgp** » 02:32 pm Nov 05 2005

well, with some vicegrips I got it out! now I guess im in for an adventure with my local stealership! and maybe I should figure out why the camera pictures are so dark, even with the flash on!

m0rie · Post by **m0rie** » 02:39 pm Nov 05 2005

CC posted the part number a while ago.

Check this thread out:

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=120

Post by **KDXGarage** » 02:47 pm Nov 05 2005

OH NO! YOu spent your torque wrench money on an FMF pipe.

Is it a press in stud or a thread in stud?? I want to say that it is a thread in stud. The stud may have thread sealant on the internal threads. I have one cylinder stud, and it has thread sealnat on the threads that would be internal. You may need to take off the wheel and heat it up before you start twisting on it with pliers, or some such tool. Be sure to loosen/remove the air bleeder screw before you apply heat, just in case.

If it gets too bad or you can't get it out with normal tools, you may have to get it drilled out with a small bit, then a larger bit and a larger bit until it brakes and you can pick out the pieces of the stud.

Any more non- '95+ owners want to chime in?

Post by **KDXGarage** » 02:59 pm Nov 05 2005

CONGRATULATIONS!!

Check out the thread m0rie mentioned. It has the part number. It's 60 cents at Ron Ayers, so maybe KC's won't charge you too much.

While you are out and about, go to Sears and buy an inches-pounds torque wrench.

Don't worry about the flash. We just wanted to see the fork leg anyway.

OH! and nice detective work there, m0rie.

bronco95tgp · Post by **bronco95tgp** » 03:56 pm Nov 05 2005

The part was not listed at all on KC's Powersports microfiche on their computer. They had the nut, and the retainer plate, but not the studs. For now I just put a bolt in there with some lock tight, and I cut the head off the bolt, and screwed the nut on. With the other 3 original studs still intact, I should be ok for a ride tomorrow?!

*edit* I guess I should pick up a torque wrench and a manual too ehh?! Jason, my dad and I are riding at Colonial Hills/Chapman Mountain tomorrow, if you throw a bike together tonight and want to go I am only a phone call away! (256) 658-5885

Post by **KDXGarage** » 07:16 pm Nov 05 2005

Did you read the thread m0rie pointed out? All you needed to do was go down there and say I need to order 172G0622. We already knew that one can not just order the stud, that is why he went to the toruble of pointing it out.

But seriously, it is part of an assembly.

Yes, you will be OK for a ride, but do go get the proper part.

78 inches-pounds, or whatever it is, is not much. A torque wrench and manual would be quite handy.

I don't have time to out a bike together, but thanks for the offer. I want to ride at Rocket City MX Park before/if it is closed.

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 04:55 pm Nov 07 2005

This all got handled OK?

You can pick up the part from a good hardware and/or auto parts store too. Look in their 'Metric Stud' department.

Take the old one (piece of it) in to make sure you have a thread match.

They thread in.

Your pics are NOT dark. If the flash was bright enough to light the background (that no one wants to see anyway) the foreground would be washed out. Considering the reflection/shiny metal you are taking a picture of..and the close range, I'd say the flash is perfect. If I'd taken it with my camera it would have been five shots with different flash/exposure settings to come up with something 1/2 as good as the shot you posted.

Do assemble correctly. There is supposed to be a gap from the cap to the fork when you're done....at the bottom!!. That's why you tighten the cap at the TOP first. You do NOT crosstighten the cap.

Use a suitable thread locking agent.

Happy riding.

KanuckKDX · Post by **KanuckKDX** » 06:31 pm Nov 07 2005

canyncarvr wrote:Do assemble correctly. There is supposed to be a gap from the cap to the fork when you're done....at the bottom!!. That's why you tighten the cap at the TOP first. You do NOT crosstighten the cap.

Use a suitable thread locking agent.

This is valuable and I didn't know this. Is it in my manual and I missed it? I have two bikes with this type of axle so it's twice as important.

I presume blue threadlocker is suitable. And I am sure we're torquing far too tight, which is why we haven't seen the need for threadlocker.

Thanks CC.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 06:34 pm Nov 07 2005

I do believe it is in the manual.

He may be referring to using threadlocker to mount the stud.

Torque values on those axle nuts is around 70 - 80 something INCH-POUNDS, not foot-pounds. Someone (or two) already made that mistake.

Colorado Mike · Post by **Colorado Mike** » 07:44 pm Nov 07 2005

It shore nuff is in the manual. ( the part about not cross-torqueing) and yeah, the torque surprisingly light. Just cuz it's in there doesn't mean that I didn't overlook it the first couple times. Who needs to be told how to bolt an axle together?

Uhhh, that would be me.

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 07:59 pm Nov 07 2005

Yes I was referring to using threadlocker to install the stud.

I was also referring to using threadlocker to attach the plate.

Seeing as the nuts are held in place by some puny in/lb number, AND..them coming off would indeed sucketh most large..I want 'em to STAY. Jason is close if not right on..seems to me it's something like 80-something in/lb. Anyway, I've always used LocTite that is indeed blue. Color does not alway say what the stuff actually is...it's the LocTite that is removeable with common hand tools.

..the same stuff I use everywhere on the bike..exhuast bolts, seat bolts, shroud bolts, tank bolts. If it's a bolt on the bike...it's prolly got blue on it!

Yep. It is in the manual shur 'nuff. There may not be a PICTURE of it (and that may be the problem!

)...but it's in there.

Yeah..some have misread the in as ft. Ha! Sumthin' like a 1/4" faster to 80ft+. C'mon..you have to admit that IS kind'a funny!!

OK OK...it's only funny 'cuz it didn't happen to me!!

Cheers!

Post by **KDXGarage** » 09:14 pm Nov 07 2005

I would suggest to use blue on both ends, too.

I want to say it is 78 inch-pounds. Go back and forth several times, don't wind it up on one, then go to the other one.

bronco95tgp · Post by **bronco95tgp** » 10:54 pm Nov 07 2005

who woulda known not to cross tighten those bolts?! A GUY WITH NO MANUAL! (ME) I figured I didnt want it coming off so by gosh it was going to be tight! thanks for all the help on that guys, my dad and I had a great Sunday afternoon ride!

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