$5 per ride - plug fouling is getting old...

[Tedh98]

Leaks could come from several sources. A drain plug that doesnt have the copper crush washer, a leaking gasket from the inner or outer clutch cover. I had this seal leak a while back:


Ride in some fine dust and an external leak should become fairly obvious.

[TAT2]

So... Finding an external oil leak could be a good thing. I assume replacing crank seals is not easy? The OP and I may be in the same boat. I think I may be losing some trans oil somewhere too....

Sorry Spikejr.... I did not mean to hijack your thread. I hope we can find a jetting and engine leak solution together.

T

[Spikejr]

So... Finding an external oil leak could be a good thing. I assume replacing crank seals is not easy? The OP and I may be in the same boat. I think I may be losing some trans oil somewhere too....

Sorry Spikejr.... I did not mean to hijack your thread. I hope we can find a jetting and engine leak solution together.

T

Feel free to jump in...we're all in this together I'll be checking my oil level on Sunday...traveling for business right now so kinda stuck for awhile. The bummer is that until I determine whether or not I have a leak, any extra effort towards solving the jetting issue is time wasted...leak test has now moved up my priority list..especially if I find that the oil has dropped after a 2 hr ride...

[Spikejr]

Well - checked the oil and sure enough - it looked lower than when I filled it up after only a 2 hr ride. I topped it off again, put a fresh plug in the bike, and then ran the IXCR race at Rockrun Sunday...came back after another 2 hr ride and the trans oil seems to be ok Since I'm done with some riding for awhile, I'll get the leak down done to verify the integrity of the seals. Then I'll do the plug chops and jetting. All of that will have to wait until late Nov as I bent the bars and broke my clutch perch... Add that to the list

[TAT2]

Right on! I am with you on riding now.....the dirt is sweet here in Oregon now! Sounds like your oil level is good so no leaky crank seals. I rode for two hours on Sunday and my oil level did not move one little bit! I still need to check my compression and do a few plug chops too. But the bike ran great! I richened up the airscrew a 1/4 turn and moved my clip down to two position with the temps dropping to 60 degrees. Pulled the new plug I installed for the ride yesterday and I think it looks good.... Maybe a little wet but I was trying to run it a little fat....

[Spikejr]

At this point - I'd be thrilled with a plug like that! Lol. At least I have the insulator that color...

[TAT2]

At this point - I'd be thrilled with a plug like that! Lol. At least I have the insulator that color...

Wish I knew more to help ya.....did you ever change your PJ?

T

[Spikejr]

No jet changes just yet - I spoke with the local shop and they'll do a leak down for $42. I guess that's a decent price since it would probably cost that much or more for me to piece together a system to get the test done. Although I would have the tools for the next time...

I'll get into the jets soon - I had to back up a couple of steps since I bent handle bars and broke the clutch perch...gotta get her in running condition again...

[TAT2]

That sucks.... Hope you get it running. $42 sounds pretty good. I hope it passes. If not will the test show where it's leaking?

T

[Spikejr]

I'm taking it over there now - the "basic" test just pressurizes the case and measures the time it takes to drop psi. For example, pressurize to 6 psi and measure the time it takes for the psi to drop 1 psi to 5psi. If less than a minute - you've got bad seals. They also have a test to take off the side case and expose the seals - they spray water on them to check for leaks. That requires new gaskets on the side after they are done...if the psi fails the 1 min test then I'll have them go further...

[TAT2]

Gotcha. You are talking bad crank seals? Right

T

[Spikejr]

Well - Tedh98 was smart to have me check out the seals - the bike failed the leak down test big time...Had the guys at the local shop do the test. Here's how it was explained to me and the results:

Took off the pipe and the carb. Installed plugs with one of the plugs having a hose fitting so that a hand pump could be used to pressurize the case. Pumped the pressure up to 6psi and measured the time it took to lose 1psi. Ideally, it takes more than 1min to lose the psi...well, the bike lost 1psi in 20 seconds. At that point they sprayed a soapy water solution around the exterior of the engine at various places looking for bubbles. They found plenty of air coming from the wire opening going to the stator on the left side of the bike - that means the dry side seal behind the flywheel is leaking...they checked around the head and no issues. Also, no issues around the intake / reed cage connection. Then, on the right side, they had bubbles coming from the black hose that runs up to the power valve. So the wet side seal is also leaking.

At this point they stopped as further diagnosis / troubleshooting would exceed the $ I had expected to pay. I could have told them to pull the flywheel and directly inspect the seal, or drain the oil and pull the clutch cover to inspect the wet side seal but didn't...I decided that a 1psi loss in 20 seconds probably means that the seals are toast.

Next up for me will be to pull things apart this winter and replace the seals. The risk at this point is that the seals could be the problem, or the symptom of a larger problem. Maybe they dry rotted and are just old, original seals that have gone bad. Or, perhaps the bearings are toast and causing issues. I need to be prepared for a bearing job if that's the case.

Anyway - no sense doing all that jetting work when I have this problem to solve first. The irony is that a dry side seal leans things out, and the wet side make things rich...Lol...I doubt they are failing in a manner that cancel each other out...I'll be back to update the thread once I get into the repairs. Maybe I'll do in during December...maybe January. But for now - I'll just plug away and enjoy the last of the riding season around here

[Julien D]

Since the cases must be split to replace the seals, it would be silly not to go ahead and rebuild the bottom end.

[Tedh98]

Next up for me will be to pull things apart this winter and replace the seals. The risk at this point is that the seals could be the problem, or the symptom of a larger problem. Maybe they dry rotted and are just old, original seals that have gone bad. Or, perhaps the bearings are toast and causing issues. I need to be prepared for a bearing job if that's the case.

If you are splitting the cases, it makes most sense to replace all the bearings (crank and transmission) while you are at it. It doesn't cost that much more to replace everything and will keep things running well for another 21 years.

[Spikejr]

Well, that settles that argument - Lol. Rebuild time! Now for a manual...

[Spikejr]

Great thread with a walk-thru on splitting the cases to do the repairs that I will need...this site is great! If you haven't donated a couple of $ to support the site, I encourage you to do so. There's a wealth of info and expertise here - take advantage of the site and throw a couple of $ to keep it going for others in the future

Link to splitting the cases: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 77&t=12241

[TAT2]

I totally agree! Amazing site! Has taught me a ton. I am contributing right now!

T