Stiff clutch springs

[Bitteeinit]

Hey,

My clutch is REALLY stiff... I put in a new clutch set recently, but the springs are really stiff. I'm already getting used to them (I've done 10 hours+ of riding on it), but the day after a long ride, my left forearm is actually tired, lol. Feels like I'm using one of those "grip-strengtheners" all day.


Any ideas? I'm getting better with it, but it's sooo stiff compared to my 4-stroke. No problem high-speed, but in really tight stuff it's a bit tricky. While I'm at it:
1-Where do you guys buy friction plates? The only ones I found (on ebay) were like 5-10$ cheaper than buying a full set (discs, springs). That's why I got the full set.
2-I still have the old springs (6 of them). I don't really feel like opening the bike up just yet... Unless that's the best option. Maybe a different lever? Moving the clutch perch inwards a bit to get more leverage?
3-I've heard of people tie-wrapping down the clutch for a few hours or overnight, but that seems like it would wear the springs unevenly or put a lot of stress on the cable. Has anyone done this before? Or should I just keep at it and strengthen my grip?

Thanks for any input.

[KarlP]

The KDX clutch should not have a hard pull; you may just need to spend a few minutes each day working hand exercisers.....

1. I've used OEM and Honda XR-400 friction discs. Either one worked fine. I've never tried any of the aftermarket
2. The old springs are an option, if only to show that the new springs are stiffer. You can swap springs without pulling the whole clutch. Moving the lever around may help a bit.
3. I never heard of that. I don't see what it would do.

Did you replace the cable? I always had best results with a new OEM cable. I've tried cleaning and lubing older cables and never had good results. A new cable installed with no additional lube worked best.
The actuating lever down above the RH case should move through 90 deg. You can adjust that by adding or removing that shim washer on the throw out bearing.
Cable routing is important. It is obvious if it is taking a sharp bend somewhere.

Keep at it!

[newbbewb]

I can't remember but I think kdx has 6 springs. swap three stiff springs out for OEM units.

I have EBC springs in the hybrid. With the factory lever and a cheap but functioning cable, I'd get left arm pump in 20 minutes. I picked up a motion pro terminator cable and that made things better. then I got a ASV f3 lever and perch..... It's like butter now, and when you drop that sucker it grabs NOW!

[Bitteeinit]

XR 400 friction disks work?! That's great news. I thought I'd have to import some later on. How often do you change the disks? I might try swapping out a few springs.

Ah! So it's not just me! Yeah I have an EBC combo in there. It was rough at first, but now I can ride a few hours and it's "ok". It just makes standing still on the bike/clutch control difficult. Something I've never had trouble with before. I also have to use 3-4 fingers. I wanted to get a shorty lever by some other company, but I'll check out ASV. How much did it set you back? Easy to adjust as well I'd imagine... I suppose a nice after market lever and perch are a good investment as they can be swapped to another bike if needed. 7/8 or 1 1/4?

[newbbewb]

I think the lever/perch assembly was just over $150 shipped. I actually have the c6 lever with quick adjust wheel perch will fit 7/8 or 1 1/8 bars. I'd buy another one in a heartbeat.

[Bitteeinit]

I might just order some in a month or two. I was also looking at the MSR Pro Raptor, but reviews seem to be mixed... Seems it does what it's supposed to (easier clutch pull, adaptability), but that it breaks apart easily. Might be that half of them are lemons or something...

[JasonK94Z]

I might just order some in a month or two. I was also looking at the MSR Pro Raptor, but reviews seem to be mixed... Seems it does what it's supposed to (easier clutch pull, adaptability), but that it breaks apart easily. Might be that half of them are lemons or something...

I have that lever. It's buttery smooth and effortless to pull. Worth every penny.

[Bitteeinit]

Good to hear. It's quite a bit cheaper than the ASV. I'll probably pick one up in December. In the meantime... I figure putting the old springs back in (or 3 of them, as newbb says) is my best bet. Is it necessary to drain the oil when I remove the springs? Or can I tip the bike to one side and remove the cover/swap the springs without having to drain the oil first? If not, it's no biggie, it's just that I literally JUST put new oil in 2 days ago. Also, is a new gasket necessary? I got a new gasket set very recently when I had the topend done. I can't recall, but I assume a clutch cover gasket wasn't included as it was for the topend. I know the EBC kit didn't come with a gasket... I guess I have to just pull it open and see how the gasket looks?

[Bitteeinit]

Well I swapped out the new springs and put the old ones back in. What a difference! Back to being an easy 2 finger pull. For future reference: there are only 5 springs (not 6), and DO lean the bike over to the left.