98 KDX Lowering Link

Dragondude · Post by **Dragondude** » 07:20 pm Sep 12 2013

Hey Guys! I need to find a lowering link for my 98 KDX 200. I really need a 2' drop, But I'll take 1' if I have to. I'm short and light. The bike is a little big on me, a little to tall. It mainly feels top heavy so i'm weary of throwing into corners or even leaning it over lol. Anyone know where I could get some? I haven't been able to locate any.
PS. I had 2 shims taken out of my front forks, the forks got rebuilt and they still suck. Barely noticed a difference. If I can get this lowering link at the least then it's bye-bye KDX.

rbates9 · Post by **rbates9** » 07:40 pm Sep 12 2013

You could try,

http://koubalink.com/kdxinstall.html

http://www.carlscycle.com/catalog_produ ... uct=245323

Post by **bufftester** » 09:19 pm Sep 12 2013

Keep in mind that lowering links reduce your usable travel, and also change the spring rate through that now smaller range of travel. If you already feel that the suspension is too harsh (as indicated in your other posts) a lowering link will only make it feel harsher, especially since the rear is sprung for a heavier rider than the forks are (bike from the factory is unbalanced). At your weight you'd need to go down on spring weight. All that said, I have short buddies that ride KDXs and KTMs (just as tall) and they do well (except when they stop on non level ground...which is just fun to watch

). If it's that much of a problem I'd suggest selling the KDX and finding yourself a shorter bike (maybe you could get your KLX140 back?)

rbates9 · Post by **rbates9** » 09:40 pm Sep 12 2013

I ride with a girl that is about 5'3" that rides a stock height KTM 250XCWF. She is about 8" from being able to touch a toe on flat ground. She does very well on it.

Postigo · Post by **Postigo** » 01:06 am Sep 13 2013

Hi, you can remove about an inch of the seat foam to solve your problem.

cornishwrecker220 · Post by **cornishwrecker220** » 04:18 am Sep 13 2013

Agreed with postie ..cut a few inches off the seat will help..also correct setting of the shock `sag` & even a reduction the compression by a few clicks will also help a little.

diymirage · Post by **diymirage** » 05:28 am Sep 13 2013

if you don't have a pair of MX boots you could ask gene simmons if you could borrow his, that should give you the height you need

cornishwrecker220 · Post by **cornishwrecker220** » 11:41 am Sep 13 2013

Just be careful you don't get that tongue caught up in the chain !! ` I , wanna rock n roll all night` ...

sarrant · Post by **sarrant** » 01:10 pm Sep 13 2013

bufftester wrote:Keep in mind that lowering links reduce your usable travel, and also change the spring rate through that now smaller range of travel. If you already feel that the suspension is too harsh (as indicated in your other posts) a lowering link will only make it feel harsher, especially since the rear is sprung for a heavier rider than the forks are (bike from the factory is unbalanced). At your weight you'd need to go down on spring weight. All that said, I have short buddies that ride KDXs and KTMs (just as tall) and they do well (except when they stop on non level ground...which is just fun to watch ). If it's that much of a problem I'd suggest selling the KDX and finding yourself a shorter bike (maybe you could get your KLX140 back?)

Generally, depending on the linkage geometry, a lowering link is going to move the linkage farther out of its progressive range, making it more (possibly overly) compliant, not harsher.

adam728 · Post by **adam728** » 04:18 pm Sep 13 2013

The biggest problem (in my opinion) with a lowering link is that they do nothing to reduce travel. So the reat tire will bottom into the rear fender that much harder. Theres always a possibility it could grab, although unlikely.

Sent via morse code

sarrant · Post by **sarrant** » 06:15 pm Sep 13 2013

adam728 wrote:The biggest problem (in my opinion) with a lowering link is that they do nothing to reduce travel. So the reat tire will bottom into the rear fender that much harder. Theres always a possibility it could grab, although unlikely.

Sent via morse code

I race AHRMA vintage motocross, and they require the use of travel limiters for all shocks that exceed the maximum travel in the rulebook (no more than 4" in back). They're just some machined plastic spacers that you must put underneath the shock bumper. One could always make and install those to limit the travel so it doesn't rub.

diymirage · Post by **diymirage** » 06:58 pm Sep 13 2013

adam728 wrote:The biggest problem (in my opinion) with a lowering link is that they do nothing to reduce travel. So the reat tire will bottom into the rear fender that much harder. Theres always a possibility it could grab, although unlikely.

no kidding, that is how my sisters FZR-600 is set up and I ALWAYS forget about it until I hit the first speedbump and that always gives me a rude awakening

Dragondude · Post by **Dragondude** » 08:43 pm Sep 14 2013

bufftester wrote:Keep in mind that lowering links reduce your usable travel, and also change the spring rate through that now smaller range of travel. If you already feel that the suspension is too harsh (as indicated in your other posts) a lowering link will only make it feel harsher, especially since the rear is sprung for a heavier rider than the forks are (bike from the factory is unbalanced). At your weight you'd need to go down on spring weight. All that said, I have short buddies that ride KDXs and KTMs (just as tall) and they do well (except when they stop on non level ground...which is just fun to watch ). If it's that much of a problem I'd suggest selling the KDX and finding yourself a shorter bike (maybe you could get your KLX140 back?)

I'm probably just complaining to much lol I just want the confidence I had on my KLX with this bike. I probably should just, as my dad would say " Suck it up buttercup" and ride. I would never go back to the KLX because of power but thats the only reason. I thought about a KX 125. I think it was the 97 or 99 and up had some nice low end power which is what I need no matter what bike I get. I may go to a YZ but I would hate to betray my green brethren.

diymirage · Post by **diymirage** » 09:21 pm Sep 14 2013

Dragondude wrote: I may go to a YZ but I would hate to betray my green brethren.

buying a YZ leaves you with two options

1: pull the YZ forks, bolt them on the KDX and scrap the rest
2: pull the YZ engine, scrap it and slap the KDX engine in its place

sarrant · Post by **sarrant** » 10:53 pm Sep 14 2013

KX and YZ 125s are both actually a good deal taller (and stiffer) than a KDX.

Dragondude · Post by **Dragondude** » 11:07 am Sep 15 2013

buying a YZ leaves you with two options

1: pull the YZ forks, bolt them on the KDX and scrap the rest
2: pull the YZ engine, scrap it and slap the KDX engine in its place[/quote]

I need to do some research and find out what bikes are the "easiest" to put the KDX engine into.

diymirage · Post by **diymirage** » 12:04 pm Sep 15 2013

Dragondude wrote:
Diymirage wrote:buying a YZ leaves you with two options

1: pull the YZ forks, bolt them on the KDX and scrap the rest
2: pull the YZ engine, scrap it and slap the KDX engine in its place

I need to do some research and find out what bikes are the "easiest" to put the KDX engine into.

try here
http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewforum.php?f=111

Dragondude · Post by **Dragondude** » 09:31 am Oct 06 2013

sarrant wrote:KX and YZ 125s are both actually a good deal taller (and stiffer) than a KDX.

Yet I feel more confident on a YZ 250. Plus the fact that the 125's/250's have adjustable forks and shocks but the KDX only has a compression clicker on the on the shock.

kashola · Post by **kashola** » 07:46 pm Oct 07 2013

I think I have a set of 3" links laying around if you're interested in "pre-owned".

kawagumby · Post by **kawagumby** » 08:33 pm Oct 07 2013

One way to drop the suspension height is to have a suspension guy put a spacer IN the rear shock to limit the travel. With the front you raise the forks in the triples. In both cases the spring rate is not affected and you should not have problems with bottoming as long as you don't go berserk with the amount of lowering.

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