An ambitious 86 200 project

rbates9 · Post by **rbates9** » 05:05 pm Feb 27 2013

..........

GKBO · Post by **GKBO** » 03:55 am Mar 01 2013

Roadhazardguy wrote:Looks good!

Haha I think yall might be getting old... having the same conversation about soda blasting hubs in the same thread just one page later! lol

.................I resemble this remark.Mind you I was pretty sure me and rbates had done this before,I was just to lazy to see if it was this thread or some other one

GKBO · Post by **GKBO** » 07:49 pm Mar 02 2013

It rained today so blasting the hubs was out so:

I took the shock apart,well as far as I could.

The Clymer manual says pry on these holes to get the top off.How hard to you need to do that?Hasn't budged with what I've done so far.Anybody have a "trick" to share?

This is a 500ml container,about 1/2 full of grotty old oil.

Post by **bufftester** » 08:07 pm Mar 02 2013

I just did the one for my hybrid, and the manual said to use two allen wrenches and work both sides at the same time...I bent the hell out of one before it started to go. You really have to pry both sides at the same time to keep the cap from getting cockeyed. I ended up using the biggest allens I could get in the holes, then when it got up a little higher I moved up to a bigger set of allens so they wouldn't bend.
My dad said when he did his he stuck the shock in the freezer for a couple hours, pulled it out and used a heat gun to heat the shock body (bot not the cap) real quick, and then pried like hell.

GKBO · Post by **GKBO** » 08:16 pm Mar 02 2013

Thanks I will put it in the freezer tonight and try that in the morning

Post by **KDXGarage** » 11:27 pm Mar 02 2013

Get a pin punch about the size of a pencil, then break the pin part off, just so it looks more like a pencil. The angle should not be as long as a pencil, though. Grind the end so it has not got the point.

Place the end in the opening (mud / water drain) at a little bit of an angle. Use a hammer and drive it up towards the cap (away from the shock body). Just take turns, back and forth, over and over

, until it starts to break free and move a little, then keep working both sides. Don't try to move it to far on one side, without working the other side.

This has worked for me for years.

GKBO · Post by **GKBO** » 05:12 am Mar 03 2013

If Bufftesters way doesn't work I will try that Jason.I've got extra allen keys hanging around but not a lot of drifts.For some reason drifts are hard to find here.

Edit:I do have a extra nail set kicking around,I'm thinking if I grind off the end that might work.Don't do a lot of carpentry

Post by **KDXGarage** » 11:07 am Mar 03 2013

Also, check the bladder to make sure it is not collapsed or damaged. It can get the "three sided wear" pattern or whatever one might want to call it. It looks like a four-corner seizure on a piston, just three-sided. I have seen them worn into the material and needing replacement.

Well, after 27 years, it would be an instant replacement item, I would think. Also, research bottom out bumper.

GKBO · Post by **GKBO** » 12:40 pm Mar 03 2013

Yeah I need a bumper,the old one crumbled away.There is a bit of that wear pattern in the bladder but I put a bit of air in and it became smooth.Bufftesters idea didn't do a thing so I ground a center punch down and that worked great,little bit on each side just like you said.Got the seal down to release the circlip,now that's being a PITA

Post by **KDXGarage** » 01:07 pm Mar 03 2013

Good job.

Get an old small flat head screwdriver, then grind it down to somewhat of a rounded edge. You have to get something to somewhat scoop out from the backside. When you get it to free from the edge, place another small flathead screwdriver behind it to keep it from falling back into the groove.

BE SURE to file / sand down any burrs you create.

GKBO · Post by **GKBO** » 05:38 am Mar 05 2013

Got frustrated with the shock so I had to stop doing that and have a think.So I put this together. So I had my think and what Jason said finally got though,I HAVE TO sand down the inner body top.Just like it says in the manual

I'm thick some times

Post by **KDXGarage** » 07:59 pm Mar 05 2013

Nah, I was just saying to make sure you sand down any knicks or burrs. You can easily get another o-ring for the seal head, but the bushing and whatever serves as a piston band may not be easy to find. No need to damage them as they are pulled past / against any knicked area.

GKBO · Post by **GKBO** » 08:28 am Mar 06 2013

Well I have to do that to even get the thing out

Roadhazardguy · Post by **Roadhazardguy** » 10:40 am Mar 06 2013

How did you clean that Carb, oven cleaner and a wire brush, soda blasting or was it that clean already?

Edit: I looked back, yep it was pretty nasty looking. Stinky Kleen-Flo bath, what is that? A type of Carb dip?

GKBO · Post by **GKBO** » 01:51 pm Mar 06 2013

This is the stinky Kleen-Flo.

That is the first 78 GS1000 carb going into it

A before & after pic.Works as good as it smells absolutely foul.Comes in a heavy duty plastic bag for good reason.Stores don't have it on shelves and that's a good idea IMHO.You can't get the US standby Berryman's in Canada so I asked in this thread http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/sh ... p?t=178816 and got that stuff.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 03:15 pm Mar 06 2013

KINDA off topic, but anyone with a 1988 and newer KDX200/220/250 carb from Keihin (keen), DO NOT dip it. It will damage a hidden o-ring (jet block). You can buy the o-ring from Sudco and other places, but not Kawasaki, as it is NOT on the parts diagram.

Thanks.

Roadhazardguy · Post by **Roadhazardguy** » 03:35 pm Mar 06 2013

OK cool, it looks like some wicked stuff GKBO.

Thanks for the info Jason, mines a Keihin PWK and I've got two more 39mm's on the way.

GKBO · Post by **GKBO** » 05:45 am Mar 07 2013

Jason wrote:KINDA off topic, but anyone with a 1988 and newer KDX200/220/250 carb from Keihin (keen), DO NOT dip it. It will damage a hidden o-ring (jet block). You can buy the o-ring from Sudco and other places, but not Kawasaki, as it is NOT on the parts diagram.

Thanks.

Not really off topic but I'm curious,what if you take the jet block out?And yeah the dip does bad things to o rings but with the Suzuki GS's Ive been doing we have a great place to get new ones http://www.cycleorings.com/ .Sadly he don't do KDX

Roadhazardguy · Post by **Roadhazardguy** » 10:18 am Mar 07 2013

I think I'm gonna try Pine Sol, from what I've seen it does a really good job and it doesn't eat rubber, and its cheap, and it smells good...

Post by **KDXGarage** » 10:21 am Mar 07 2013

Uhhhh, yes, that would work. Extremely few people are going to look at a gunky PWK and say, "Hey! I will hold off on that tub of Berryman's until after I whip out my tamper proof Torx driver and take out the jet block."

Almost everyone who thinks carb dip also thinks "DUNK IT!!".

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