It begins! '90 KDX200 rebuild

Post by **SS109** » 12:34 pm Jun 09 2012

david wrote:The 'damage' on the spare is nothing. Dress it with a file and run it.

That is what I decided to do. Now the output shaft is back together and all is assembled back into the right case half. Just waiting on my one single bolt to arrive.

Post by **SS109** » 08:12 pm Jun 14 2012

Still waiting on my bolt to get here. It finally shipped but won't be here until next Tuesday. Yeah.

In other news, my frame is out getting sandblasted, I ordered that ignition system from the guy in Ecuador, and the radiators should be here any day now. Also tried to remove some skin off my thumb today while prepping other parts. I wonder how a glove will feel on it when I ride this weekend?

Post by **scheckaet** » 08:25 pm Jun 14 2012

go get something called liquid band aid (walyworld...)
This will heal a LOT quicker, AND that stuff is like superglue, makes a nice waterproof (dry) coating on it. That way your glove ain't gonna stick to your skin

rbates9 · Post by **rbates9** » 08:41 pm Jun 14 2012

Bright red blood is just a scratch. Dark red blood that runs down to your elbow is when you got it good. Just set down your purse and hike up your skirt, then go riding!

Post by **SS109** » 08:49 pm Jun 14 2012

scheckaet wrote:go get something called liquid band aid (walyworld...)

I tried that stuff once and it burned like hell. No thanks!

rbates9 wrote:Bright red blood is just a scratch. Dark red blood that runs down to your elbow is when you got it good. Just set down your purse and hike up your skirt, then go riding!

But, but, my panties are in a bunch!

I'm not too worried about it. Just don't want blood all over the inside of my glove.

rbates9 · Post by **rbates9** » 08:54 pm Jun 14 2012

Post by **scheckaet** » 09:04 pm Jun 14 2012

SS109 wrote:
scheckaet wrote:go get something called liquid band aid (walyworld...)
I tried that stuff once and it burned like hell. No thanks!

wuss...

Post by **SS109** » 11:44 pm Jun 14 2012

scheckaet wrote:wuss...

Yup!

KDX200-E2 · Post by **KDX200-E2** » 12:13 am Jun 15 2012

Daaaaaammmmmm You guys a rough. Give a guy a break. Im sure that hurt like hell.
(note to self) next time I get a splinter under my thumb nail.... don't come here
looking for sympathy.
Heal fast and finish that bike.. You can ride later.
Cheers, Jeff

david · Post by **david** » 08:24 am Jun 15 2012

When you've been through the stuff some of us have, it takes a dismemberment to get some sympathy. Or at least, a broken bone.

Post by **SS109** » 06:30 pm Jun 15 2012

Damn, I cut of my leg today but a little liquid band aid and duct tape and now I'm all good.

On a serious note, I got my frame back today. It was so worth the $40 to have someone else do it!

Post by **KDXGarage** » 10:19 pm Jun 15 2012

Is that painted white or sandblasted??

Slick_Nick · Post by **Slick_Nick** » 11:03 pm Jun 15 2012

That looks bead blasted to me. Really nice finish you get with that stuff!

Post by **SS109** » 11:17 pm Jun 15 2012

It is raw, blasted steel. I plan to get it in primer tomorrow. Here is the best pic kind of showing the finish after blasting. You can see where the VIN is what it looked like where I stripped it and how it differs from the blasted area.

Post by **SS109** » 11:21 pm Jun 20 2012

Guys, my crank appears to be off to the right side of the case. There is almost no gap on the right and probably a 1/16 or 3/32 gap on the left. The case bolts are all seated and torqued so is this normal or do I need to do something to correct it? Also, I made my own crank installer using old trans gears and the primary gear nut. It worked pretty good but got hard to hold the crank from turning. I used it down to where I could get the case bolts in at least 4-5 full turns and then used them to finish pulling it together.

: crank spacing.jpg (208.94 KiB) Viewed 7452 times

Slick_Nick · Post by **Slick_Nick** » 05:28 am Jun 21 2012

You can not use the case bolts to finish it off. You need to fully seat the crank with the puller until both case halves are fully seated, then you can install them. Pull it back apart and use a proper puller.

Frysk · Post by **Frysk** » 05:57 am Jun 21 2012

when I've installed a crank I just used a plastic hammer and hit it till its in the center of the case.
I used a feeler gauge to see if its lined up right, no fancy tools just a swing of a hammer :)

Post by **Julien D** » 06:35 am Jun 21 2012

Frysk wrote:when I've installed a crank I just used a plastic hammer and hit it till its in the center of the case.
I used a feeler gauge to see if its lined up right, no fancy tools just a swing of a hammer :)

This. I use a block of wood and a mallet. It's not very hard to center it up.

Slick_Nick · Post by **Slick_Nick** » 06:52 am Jun 21 2012

Hammering the crank don't you run the risk of taking it out of true?

Post by **Julien D** » 07:01 am Jun 21 2012

Slick_Nick wrote:Hammering the crank don't you run the risk of taking it out of true?

Sure, if you go whaling on it I guess you could. Never had it happen. I stick a box end wrench that just barely fits in between the crank halves. I've also seen people use plastic shims. I've done it this way many times and never had a problem. Is it the best way? Probably not. It definitely works though, and I've seen mechanics way better than I will ever be do it the same way.

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