Just some more cylinder pictures...

[rbates9]

I started hearing a noise I wasn't happy with so I decided to take a closer look at the engine. First I found that I had a leaking left crank seal so I decided to order up some parts and replace them. While I was ordering up the parts I decided that the 12 year old stock piston and rings (that still had 150 PSI of compression) might as well get replaced while I was in there. I started the tear down tonight and when I got the cylinder off I found things that I really did not like.

If you look just to the right of center you can see a little patch of badness.






So right now I know I need to replace the crank seals. The jug could use some attention. I have a new piston set, complete gasket set, crank bearings and seals. But..... I have about 8-10 more rides before a bit of down time from riding for awhile. Can I do the crank seals ect and slap the old piston back in and take care of it in a couple of months, or do it right the first time and loose a few of my weeks of riding? Decisions, decisions.

The rest of the cylinder looks to be in OK shape, not great but more than usable. The old piston has some scuffs but still smooth. The case is getting split one way or the other but I'm still kinda on the fence about sending the cylinder out for repairs while I can still ride....(Just thinking out loud)

I know "do a search" but what place is the best place to send your cylinder out to and get YOUR cylinder back with a great plating job in a reasonable amount of time?

[rbates9]

Also I figured while I am doing the rebuild I am going to take a bunch of pictures to try to do a how to as far as a complete disassembly of the engine once it is out of the frame. Might help some of the newer people that get scared when they need to go inside.

[Julien D]

The pics are fuzzy, and it's a bit hard to tell. Even so, that cylinder looks pretty good. Take a scotch brite pad and some WD40 to it and see what it looks like all scrubbed down. That bad spot you see might be just aluminum deposits from the piston.

As far as replating, if you you decide to do so... I've had cylinders off to just about all the major shops. I've been the happiest with Langcourt. Millennium did a good job also, but It was quite a bit more expensive. US Chrome = no. Might as well pitch the cylinder into the trash can.

[B737driver]

I had a friend who recently sent a cylinder to Lancourt. Almost 2 months later he got it back. They blamed it on high demand, technical problems, etc. I sent mine to Millennium and had it back in 3 weeks. That being said I agree with Juliend, scotch brite and wd 40. I wish my jug looked that good. Would've saved me about $185.00.

[rbates9]

I did do some scotch bright and it still has a spot that I'm not too happy with. But You guys might just be talking me into running with it.

[rbates9]

Well, I got the bottom end split and back together (Im thinking about a case splitting how to thread) and tore the cylinder down and cleaned it up the best I could. It still has the bad spot on the intake side. Replate is in order in the near future.

I have been considering throwing it back together with the old piston to get by for a little bit then sending it out to get worked on. But... What is the general opinion on boring and replating? Not that the cylinder will need boring to be replated but for a little more grunt.

What would happen if it was bored to a 220 and still had the 200 porting? I know the head would need some work as well as the power valve. Or what about the 225 kits? And who to get it done by? Or just stick with a 200? I don't ride that high in the RPMs typically and do mostly slow steep riding.

[Slick_Nick]

If you're gonna bore, go all out and get the Forward Motion 225 Kit. That price includes plating, piston, everything.

[Julien D]

I had a friend who recently sent a cylinder to Lancourt. Almost 2 months later he got it back. They blamed it on high demand, technical problems, etc. I sent mine to Millennium and had it back in 3 weeks. That being said I agree with Juliend, scotch brite and wd 40. I wish my jug looked that good. Would've saved me about $185.00.

Odd. I've had three cylinders to them in the past 2 years and had them all back within 2 weeks of the day I shipped them out.

[rbates9]

If you're gonna bore, go all out and get the Forward Motion 225 Kit. That price includes plating, piston, everything.

Tell me more!

[gregp]

Forward Motion is Eric Gore's company, I believe. The kit costs $500:
http://www.eric-gorr.com/bbmasterlisthtml.html

[rbates9]

Has any one done this? Is it worth the extra couple hundred bucks? Is there any reliability left in the bike?

[gregp]

BTW - To the OP - I once had a KX80 cylinder replated by US Chrome. When it came back, the entire cylinder looked like the area you are concerned about! It was completely porous. The cylinder had a tag on it that pretty much said "Don't worry about the porous look. It is normal and the pores help hold the oil". The bike ran fine for years. If I had your cylinder, I would just clean it up, and re-install it if it is OK dimensionally.

[gregp]

Eric Gore recommendations run Hot and Cold. I have spoken with people who have been absolutely thrilled with his work, and others who say that they will never go back. There was one poster here, not too long ago, who was disappointed....
As far as the kit goes, I have not spoken with anybody who has tried it, but If I needed a new cylinder, or even a re-plate, I would probably buy this kit instead, as long as replacement pistons/rings are readily available.