New KDX 220 Owner: KX 500 Wheel Question

[SpudRider]

I recently bought a 1998, KDX 220. This is the third bike in my stable, and the first Kawasaki I have ever owned. After bringing the bike home, I discovered my bike has 43mm, USD forks, which are apparently from the 94-96, KX 500 bike. The first owner installed new fork seals on these forks.





I have obtained the KDX 200 service manual, and the KDX 220 Supplement to that manual. I have also obtained a KDX 220 Owners Manual. In addition, I have obtained a KX 500 Owners Manual, which contains a lot of information regarding fork maintenance. However, the KX 500 Owners Manual does not address changing the front wheel.

I also acquired a spare, KX 500 front wheel with this motorcycle. However, I have discovered that the axle is rusted into the axle nut on both my KX 500, front wheels. I can change the wheels by removing the axle clamps on both forks. However, I presume the correct procedure is to first loosen the axle clamp bolts on the right fork, and then to unscrew the axle from the axle nut. Am I correct?

In any event, I need to break the axles from the axle nuts before I can inspect the wheel bearings on both my front wheels. Can anyone offer any advice on the best way to accomplish this? Thank you.

Spud

[Julien D]

Yes, I think you are right about loosening the RH pinch clamp and then thread the axle out. Have you got an impact wrench, by any chance?

[scheckaet]

maybe I missed something but have you tried removing the axle nut 1st then loosen the pinch clamp?

[marrk_us]

I have similar 43mm kx forks on my hybrid. Just loosen the right side pinch bolts, the remove the axle. In places where rust and/or proper maintenance are problems the axle threads and the threaded collar will rust together. If this is the case you'll have to remove the left side pinch bolts and clamp, the try to work loose the axle from the collar, or worst case carefully cut the collar off.

Even though rust isn't a problem in Colorado, when doing maintenance I'm always sure to clean the axle threads and lube the threads before putting the wheel back on. And always be sure to torque the pinch bolts to spec, they'll small and look easy to break. Good luck, you scored on that set of forks!

[SpudRider]

I have similar 43mm kx forks on my hybrid. Just loosen the right side pinch bolts, the remove the axle...

Thank your very much! Since the axle extends all the way through the axle nut, I thought I might need to loosen the pinch bolts because they would be compressing the axle. However, the axle nut is undoubtedly large enough to take the compressive loads without pinching the axle! The pinch bolts on the left fork clamp hold the axle nut securely in the fork. Therefore, I can understand why one doesn't want to loosen the pinch bolts, since he would then need to put a wrench on the axle nut before he could loosen the axle.

...In places where rust and/or proper maintenance are problems the axle threads and the threaded collar will rust together. If this is the case you'll have to remove the left side pinch bolts and clamp, the try to work loose the axle from the collar, or worst case carefully cut the collar off...

With the wheel removed, I have been applying PB Blaster Penetrating Oil, heating the axle nut with a propane torch, and pounding away with a rubber mallet and two wrenches on the axle and axle nut. However, I haven't had any success; the axle nut is still firmly rusted onto the axle.

I think I will next take the wheel to my friend's diesel repair shop, and see if he can break the axle nut off the axle with a vise and a breaker bar. If that technique doesn't work, I guess I will need to cut through both the axle nut and axle at a location inside the axle threads, but just outside the wrench nut on the axle nut.

...Even though rust isn't a problem in Colorado, when doing maintenance I'm always sure to clean the axle threads and lube the threads before putting the wheel back on. And always be sure to torque the pinch bolts to spec, they'll small and look easy to break. Good luck, you scored on that set of forks!

Thank you. Indeed, I certainly plan to clean, and lubricate the axle threads. I can’t believe the previous owners allowed the axle to rust into the axle nut! With the axle locked onto the wheel, one needs to remove both fork clamps to remove the wheel! Also, one cannot even inspect the wheel bearings with the axle locked onto the wheel assembly. Finally, changing tires is certainly not facilitated with the axle locked onto the wheel.

Spud

[marrk_us]

If you can't get it off, try just cutting most of the way through the axle nut (length wise) with a dremel tool or other cutting wheel almost to the threads. then place a chisel in the cut (wide enough to spread the nut) and it should open like a clam shell and you'll be able to save the axle, clean the threads and only have to purchase a new nut. Good luck.

[SpudRider]

Yes, I think you are right about loosening the RH pinch clamp and then thread the axle out. Have you got an impact wrench, by any chance?

You were right! Thank you for your reply.

Spud

[SpudRider]

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maybe I missed something but have you tried removing the axle nut 1st then loosen the pinch clamp?

Strangley enough, the axle nut on the KX500 wheel is located inside the left fork, and held in place by the fork clamp, as shown in the following photograph.



Spud

[SpudRider]

Thank you so much for your help, Marrk. As you can see in the following photograph, I got the KX500 front wheel removed from my bike using the method you described.



I still need to "persuade" the axle out of my spare, KX500, front wheel shown in the photograph below.



However, thanks to you, I am in good shape, since the axle, and the axle nut currently installed on my bike are in good condition. I needed to remove the front wheel to install a replacement brake rotor, shown in the next photograph.



Spud

[scheckaet]

makes sense now that I see the pic. wondering what kawi was thinking when they built that bike...

[gsa102]

That is early 90's tech. Preload the bearings, then clamp the axle to the forks. Probably to reduce stiction. And tough to get apart. Same as the CRs.