NEW HYBRID PROBLEMS good & BAD

[05hybridchick923]

I love my hybrid it fits my small stature perfectly I have been researching tumper talk to find out as much as I can to find out what the guy put on it when he built it
I found that my forks are from a KX450F supposedly stock, but cant seem to get them soft enuff for my 120 lb body weight (any ideas there?)
I am in the process of replacing bearings on the swing-arm,bushings, rear wheel and rear shock, the bearings that were in it were crushed broken and well I'm sure you get the point

he used the 35mm kdx 200 carb with the stock 220 slide and needle not sure if that makes a difference,

I also pulled the horn part of the pipe off the front of the motor, he used a pro-circuit 2 performance pipe, i felt around in the cylinder and the gears inside are loose (they wiggle) are they supposed to do that?

still exploring and replacing worn out parts will post more as I figure it out My race season starts in october its been quite crazy trying to find seat time in between budgeting new parts to have the bike in tip top shape for the 2011/2012 season I have under 2 yrs riding experience total and i started on a 1995 XR200 going from the xr to the HYBRID has been a huge but great learing curve I have gotten faster and a bit braver on the new bike despite the quirks I have run into,
more to come

[SS109]

Forks - what have you done to them? Have you purchased the right springs (front and rear) for your weight?

KIPS valves - how do they move? Up and down, side to side, or rotating?

[05hybridchick923]

FORKS> Havent purchased new springs yet budget and work being the busy time of yr doesnt help along with budget, I did adjust the clickers I have the top COMP- 7 out from the S and the bottom 12 out from the S what i did was set both at the softest point and stop along the trail and adjusted as i went alon they are feeling ok right now but still a bit out of control ( alot of head shake) on loose gravel and creek beds and cant keep the front tire down climbing hills even when i am hanging over the bars climbing hills

KIPS- i can wiggle them from the front tire to the back tire about a 1/2 cenemeter if that makes sense

about a week after I bought the bike I picked up a notebook and have been keeping track of the yr and part number for the different areas of the bike as well as the date it was replaced

[Tedh98]

RE your forks, heckler recently posted up a similar question about his 450f forks. I'm not sure what year your forks are, so this may only be somewhat relevant.

At the end of his post here on kdxrider, he has a link to the question he posted at TT, make sure to check that out - lots of replies to that thread.

450f fork thread

As was mentioned, springs are very important. At 120 lbs, I would think you are way on the light side for what the stock springs were meant for. No amount of revalving and suspension modifications are going to overcome the need for lighter springs. All the suspension experts always say springs first.

If you check on eBay for Diverse springs, you'll find a dealer that sells front springs for $80 and rear spring for $80. I think they are still doing it, but if you buy both you get free shipping. Unless you are buying used, that was the best price I found on springs. Many, including myself, have used Diverse and are happy with them and no problems.

[SS109]

KIPS- i can wiggle them from the front tire to the back tire about a 1/2 cenemeter if that makes sense.

Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong here but there shouldn't be movement to that degree unless something is broke.
Back on the suspension, there really isn't anything you can do until you get the springs sorted out. You can't even set your sag correctly and that right there will will cause some of the problems you are having. First thing, get some springs!

[Mr. Wibbens]

I have 07 450F forks and the stock .47 springs are perfect for me at 295 lbs

I imagine just about anything you do with your clickers is never going to be enough

[05hybridchick923]

I have 07 450F forks and the stock .47 springs are perfect for me at 295 lbs

I imagine just about anything you do with your clickers is never going to be enough

yup they are a tad softer but still quite a bit of head shake I rekan thats my next project but Im not gonna do I'm gonna have a shop do them .....
I having enuff trouble trying to remember how all the bearings and parts go back together on the rear end....lol

[island220]

When you take them in go with reputable suspension shop, better price and more trustworthy, in regards to head shake you might try lowering forks in tripple clamps usually stock is around 5 to 8 mm, 2 mm adjustments make quite a diference

[heckler]

yup, as Ted mentioned, check out this thread.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showth ... p?t=991787

Changing the valving made a heck of difference in the top half of travel, but I'm 175 lbs + gear, so you'll definitley want to swap the springs out first.

Also make sure that your incorrect wheel installation isn't binding the forks. That happened to me the first time I tried the inverted forks, and they did not budge.

[05hybridchick923]

yup, as Ted mentioned, check out this thread.

http://www.thumperpud.com/forum/showthread.php?t=991787

Changing the valving made a heck of difference in the top half of travel, but I'm 175 lbs + gear, so you'll definitley want to swap the springs out first.

Also make sure that your incorrect wheel installation isn't binding the forks. That happened to me the first time I tried the inverted forks, and they did not budge.

incorrect wheel installation???? what does that mean,

[Mr. Wibbens]

what does four fuggin question marks mean?

[Mr. Wibbens]

Loosen the lower pinch bolts on the t-clamp to the forks.
Loosen the axle nut
Loosen the axle pinch bolts
Loosen, then tighten to 10 foot pounds the upper pinch bolts on the t-clamp to the forks.
Bleed the air from the forks

Now,
Stand on the left side of the bike, holding the bars and put your right foot on the left peg.
Bounce your right foot on that peg. The forks AND rear shock should go up and down at about the same time. If you have to use the front brake to get the forks to move, you are doing it wrong.

The bouncing is so the forks can move on the front wheel axle and get straight. Many people crank down on the axle nut and it tweaks in the lower part of the forks, putting a bend in them so the lower part of the forks are closer together than the point where they enter the lower T-clamp.
By bouncing, the forks will seek their natural point along the front wheel axle so there is no bind or bend to them.

Now, while bouncing, hit the front brake. Do this several times. The purpose is to get the wheel to move along the axle so the rotor lines up with the caliper and the pads in the caliper.
Your forks should now be in their natural straight position without any stress trying to force them in any direction and your wheel should now be floating exactly aligned with the caliper and the rotor not dragging.
Tighten the pinch bolts on the front axle. Then try your bounce again. The forks should continue to move freely with the weight without using the front brake.
Next, tighten the front axle nut. Then go and do the bounce again. If it starts sticking, you've over tightened the axle and it's bowing in the lower fork legs.
Next tighten the upper T-clamp to torque spec. Bounce and make sure every thing is still good and nothing sticking.
Finally tighten the lower pinch bolts to 10 foot pounds. Bounce. there should be no or very little stiction. Increase the lower pinch bolt torque to 15 foot pounds and bounce. You should see a lot of stiction. Back off the torque on the lower T-clamp pinch bolts until the stiction goes away again and record the reading.

If you have stiction after this, the problem is something unusual like maybe bent axle or your upper/lower T-Clamps are not aligned right.
If it's the upper T-Clamp not lined up with the lower clamp, you'll have to start all over but this time lossen the stem nut at the start and get them in line.