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SS109 wrote: ↑04:24 pm Jan 29 2024 If Ken says the piston is good I would tend to believe him. If the piston wasn't scored you are probably good to go.

On warm up, never blip your throttle until you can actually feel the radiators are getting warm and then only gently and low revs. Yes, a lean condition will make it run hotter but I doubt that would be the sole issue but could be a contributing factor.

I'm assuming Ken measured your cylinder and the piston is matched size wise, yes?

John_S wrote: ↑06:29 pm Jan 29 2024 No offense SS of course. Everyone’s got their ways of doing it.
If you look at wiseco’s website (blog section), the instructions for a brand new piston have you “never letting it idle”. It has you lightly blipping the throttle the whole time during the first three start ups. Once just until the cylinder feels warm. Then a little hotter, then full operating temp with only a very slight cool down in between. Revving it higher each stage.

Ken O Conner also says to blip it up and down right away when you first start it with a new piston and throughout the break in. No idle. I saw him discussing that on a video years ago.

I doubt improper warm up caused it considering you don’t kick it and then launch off full throttle.

John_S wrote: ↑06:29 pm Jan 29 2024 No offense SS of course. Everyone’s got their ways of doing it.
If you look at wiseco’s website (blog section), the instructions for a brand new piston have you “never letting it idle”. It has you lightly blipping the throttle the whole time during the first three start ups. Once just until the cylinder feels warm. Then a little hotter, then full operating temp with only a very slight cool down in between. Revving it higher each stage.

Ken O Conner also says to blip it up and down right away when you first start it with a new piston and throughout the break in. No idle. I saw him discussing that on a video years ago.

I doubt improper warm up caused it considering you don’t kick it and then launch off full throttle.

SS109 wrote: ↑05:50 pm Jan 30 2024

John_S wrote: ↑06:29 pm Jan 29 2024 No offense SS of course. Everyone’s got their ways of doing it.
If you look at wiseco’s website (blog section), the instructions for a brand new piston have you “never letting it idle”. It has you lightly blipping the throttle the whole time during the first three start ups. Once just until the cylinder feels warm. Then a little hotter, then full operating temp with only a very slight cool down in between. Revving it higher each stage.

Ken O Conner also says to blip it up and down right away when you first start it with a new piston and throughout the break in. No idle. I saw him discussing that on a video years ago.

I doubt improper warm up caused it considering you don’t kick it and then launch off full throttle.

None taken!

Yes, that procedure is for breaking in a brand new piston and rings. I was referring to a normal warm up after break in. Sorry I wasn't clear but I didn't read that it was a brand piston new.

I do sort of the same on new as what they recommend. My break in procedure is as follows... Light blips which are to help keep the cylinder from glazing while the rings are trying to wear in yet get some heat in to the piston. Once I get some warmth in the radiators I start riding it gently while constantly, yet gently, varying the throttle. Once fully warm I put it 2nd or 3rd gear and rev it hard from almost a lug to the upper rpm's, then chop throttle and slow down using engine braking only, and repeat those same steps again about ten times. After that the piston and rings are seated and it's time to rip! Been doing this procedure for years and I always get great ring seal right out of the gate.

SS109 wrote: ↑10:09 pm Apr 23 2024 Hmm, that looks a little odd. I would probably pull it apart and see if a burr and/or some carbon is causing a little binding. Plus, to make things easier, I always assemble the KIPS with the cylinder off the engine and test it at that time before reinstalling the cylinder.