Case splitting.

[rbates9]

If you need to split your cases and think it is too big a job for you than read on. I think you will find it to be not as hard as it sounds.

I am posting how I did my crank bearings and seals. This is not the only way and this is not a complete bottom end rebuild as you will see. The pictures may not be that great but they are only intended to show the steps and not be a replacement for a manual. I only split the cases to replace the crank bearings and seals because I replaced everything else a couple of years ago and had a crank seal start to leak.

Tools you will need
1. A manual
2. A good torque wrench or two that can do inch pounds down to about 35 in lbs and foot pounds up to about 75 ft lbs
3. A case splitter of some sort
4. A freezer
5. A set of metric tools
6. Beer
7. A press is very handy
8. Will be mentioned in the post

Once you have the engine out of the frame it wouldn't hurt to clean off the dirt that is still on it.

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Than the first thing I do is remove the cylinder. You can take the head off at this point to get a look at the cylinder.

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You will need to remove the "paw" gear for the KIPS. This is the left hand thread that you have heard about. Don't forget to support it with a wrench so you don't break the pin for the governor.

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Then remove the four nuts that hold the cylinder down and pull it off from the bottom end.

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This is as good as any time to check the rod bearing for play. Side to side is fine. Up and down is bad.

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Next step is to remove the right side cover.

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Then remove the clutch spring retainer

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Then the clutch nut

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Pull the clutch assembly out and the primary gears then you will have this

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Remove the kicker assembly and idler gear along with the shifter shaft. (You will need to at this point if you haven't already, remove the shifter.)

Now flip the case over and remove the flywheel cover

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Remove the flywheel nut and use a puller to remove the flywheel

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Remove the coil plate and the key way

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Now remove all the bolts from the left side of the case and install your case splitter

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You will see that as you split the cases the crank end will want to come first. I use a soft hammer to tap the cases so it pulls evenly.

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After you have the cases split then it is time to remove the transmission gears. Start by removing the two shift fork guide rails

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than the transmission shafts and gears should lift out with the shift forks still in place

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Now you have a just about empty case half with the crank still stuck in there. It won't hurt to remove the shift drum at this point

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I used a press to push the crank out

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The bearings stayed in the case on both halfs so I just pressed them out using pine 2x4's as press plates so I didn't hurt the face of the case halves

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now is the time to install the crank seals. I used the press again but this could be done with a hammer and the right sized driver

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Once you have both crank seals installed You need to figure out how you are going to install the crank bearings.
Option 1

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Warm the case half and freeze the bearings
Option 2

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Use the press

After you have the bearings in the case it is time to install the crank into the right case half. I like to use the freeze and heat for this. Put the crank in the freezer for as long as you can. A few hours will work just fine. If you use a heat gun to warm up the bearing in the right case half it will help but be careful not to melt the seal. If all goes as planed than the crank will drop right in with a thunk as it bottoms out in the bearing.

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Now reinstall the transmission in the case along with the shift drum

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Install the shift forks and guide rails

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Use a good case sealer

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I bought, and am happy with the Tusk crank puller to do the next step. You might get by using heat and freeze or pulling with the case bolts but this crank puller works great!

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Keep an eye on how things are going together while you pull the case halfs together. You want them to go as even as possible

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Now that the cases are back together it is time to put all the bolts back in and tighten them. Then flip the bottom end back over and reassemble the clutch side

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Once you get to the point of having the basket back on and the primary gears in place it is time to torque them down. What I have found to work well is to fold up a shop rag and jam the gears with it

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I have found that with the rag in the gears and flat washers on the clutch springs you can tighten the clutch retaining nut easily.

Assemble the rest of the clutch

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The next step is to install the right side cover. I find it easier to place the KIPS governor in the cover and hold it in place with the KIPS actuator shaft

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Now back to the other side. Reinstall the coils and flywheel. We will get to tightening the nut later

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Now clean up the cylinder and head and reinstall

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Hold the shaft and tighten the left hand thread nut

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Now it seems I don't have a picture for the tightening of the flywheel but you can either use a piston stopper, put it in gear and bind the chain, or before you reinstall the right side cover you can hold the nut on the right side of the crank and torque the flywheel nut.

While you have everything apart it is a good idea to clean and inspect every part that you touch and replace everything that needs replacing.

I hope this can help some one in the future. As of now I am done for the night I will probably make a few edits tomorrow but you get the idea.

[SS109]

Awesome write up and great timing! I'm hoping to finally get my 200's bottom end back together this weekend!

[dfeckel]

Nice write up and pictures. I'm sure this will be helpful for lots of folks.

Here's a little pointer for people who are doing a case split for limited reasons. If the top end is fresh, then you can simply disconnect the KIPS shaft and unbolt the cylinder, saving the trouble of removing the head and having to use a new head gasket. The least favorite part of engine rebuilding for me is cleaning old gasket material off the sealing surfaces, so I'll take any possible opportunity to leave the head on the cylinder. You can still get a pretty good view into the cylinder once it's off to judge its condition. Now I know the head gasket is metallic and shouldn't really leave any residue, but I usually use a light spray of Copper Coat, which does leave residue. I'm also no stranger to using said Copper Coat to reuse a metallic head gasket in a pinch.

Another way to lock up the motor for removing or torquing the clutch nut, flywheel nut or crank gear nut is to leave the cylinder on and use a length of nylon rope fed through the spark plug hole. Feed a few inches into the cylinder and then rotate the crank until the rope bunches up between the cylinder and head and locks everything up. When you are done wrenching, just rotate the crank the opposite direction a few degrees and pull the rope out. You just need to be careful that you don't feed rope into a transfer port.

And for those folks who are nervous to split the cases, I just want to say that it's not as difficult as you imagine. And if you get stuck somewhere, you always have us helpful souls on KDXRider!

[rbates9]

Thanks.

This wasn't meant to be "The only" way to split the cases. I think it would be a great addition if the other ways to do things can get posted up here as well. If you can add a picture that would be great.

Everyone will have different access to tools so other ways around things would be great for people to post.

About removing the head or not. Nope you don't have to at all. I was in need of cleaning the KIPS parts and inspecting the cylinder. That was the only reason it came off. Many of the gaskets in the kit never got used because I didn't take that particular part off.

It was a good night for so I will have to prof read this again later and add / correct some things. But right now it is time to go riding!

[Julien D]

Awesome, I didn't even see this. Thanks for posting the write-up!

You been stickied

[woodselec]

Great post !!! Thanks for all the advice

[rbates9]

Awesome, I didn't even see this. Thanks for posting the write-up!

You been stickied

Well thank you Sir.

I would like to see some of the other ways to get the job done added to this topic to get as many ways as possible on here. Also this was on an H series so if any of the E series guys could add what is different that would be great also!

[KDXGarage]

Yes, great job! I would suggest something to help keep the crank halves aligned during reassembly. In the ooooold Kawasaki service manuals, they just used a chisel. Later they came out with the alignment tool.

[fuzzy]

Sweet write-up!!! My 2c...in the step where the crank bearings get installed, and a hammer is listed as an option....don't use a hammer, borrow/buy/steal a press and use it.

[rbates9]

in the step where the crank bearings get installed, and a hammer is listed as an option....don't use a hammer, borrow/buy/steal a press and use it.

+1

The hammer and driver was for the seals, NOT the bearings. Yes the bearings will need to be froze or pressed in.

[KarlP]

Nice write up, very usefull.

If it were me, I would loosen the flywheel and clutch nuts while the motor was still in the bike.
On reassembly I would probably snug them up on the bench but put the final hurt on them when the motor is back in the bike.

[the machinist]

It's write ups like this that make this site so frigging cool! You have done us all a great service, thank you.
-Matt

[canyncarvr]

Excellent write-up and documentation!

A caution on crank install.

You might think the Tusk crank install tool can be used to install the crank in the RH half..it being called a crank install tool and all.

No. Won't work. Not using the parts/adapters that come with the tool. That might change in the future. I'm sure my griping (more like the 'b' word, really) to RMMC about it will most certainly get them to take care of their oversight! I got the Tusk tool a couple years back.

I bought an OEM nut for the RH end of the crank (primary gear side) and had it turned down to fit into the Tusk tool. That worked fine with no worries about overheating the seal while heating the bearing.

Re: Alignment tool

Great to use if you have one, but the Tusk tool largely eliminates the purpose of it. Seeing as you are pulling the crank into the LH case bearing..not pushing, there should be no stress on the crank whatsoever at the press-pin 'fit'.

Do make sure while you are re-assembling the case halves that the rod stays out of the way of the getting-squeezed halves.

The crank seals are pretty flimsy...and you are installing them 'backwards' from what, 'fer instance, a wheel seal is installed: You are pressing/pounding on the seal side. I took a seal to the local Sears (any decent hardware store will do) store, bought a 12pt. socket that neatly fit INto the seal, used that socket to press in the new seals. I had a 6pt. socket of a correct size, but the flats of the socket deformed the seal too much to suit me. A 12pt. worked perfectly. I don't recall the size offhand. I'll check into it if anyone is that interested. Don't forget to LUBricate the case/seal...whether pressing or pounding.

Oh..on the flimsy part. If you are using a press to install the seals, use a very soft touch or you will pooch the seal.

DAMHIK

[rbates9]

Excellent write-up and documentation!

A caution on crank install.

You might think the Tusk crank install tool can be used to install the crank in the RH half..it being called a crank install tool and all.

No. Won't work. Not using the parts/adapters that come with the tool. That might change in the future. I'm sure my griping (more like the 'b' word, really) to RMMC about it will most certainly get them to take care of their oversight! I got the Tusk tool a couple years back.

I bought an OEM nut for the RH end of the crank (primary gear side) and had it turned down to fit into the Tusk tool. That worked fine with no worries about overheating the seal while heating the bearing.

I had thoughts of doing the same thing or even getting an adapter made. But good point, as the tool comes it will only work on the left side.

[SS109]

You know, you never listed what you torqued the case bolts to. Sorry, I have been looking for that bit of info and I do have the manual!

[rbates9]

You know, you never listed what you torqued the case bolts to. Sorry, I have been looking for that bit of info and I do have the manual!

Some where toward the top I think I might have mentioned that this was not a replacement for the manual.

With the manual I have it is listed in one of the exploded views of the cases. I can get that for you tomorrow if you need it.

[SS109]

Nah, just giving you a hard time. The case bolts don't have a specified torque. They have a range of 52-69 in-lbs.

[m0rie]

Nice Walkthru and great pictures!

[scheckaet]

great write up
I might have to split my case too and wondered what special tools are a MUST have and can't really be "home made" one way or another?

Tusk Crank Puller/Installer Tool? (1177380002 $59.99)
Tusk Flywheel Puller 27 mm? (1179010002 $10.99)
Tusk Crankcase Splitter/Separator? (1177390001 $59.99)

[rbates9]

great write up
I might have to split my case too and wondered what special tools are a MUST have and can't really be "home made" one way or another?

Tusk Crank Puller/Installer Tool? (1177380002 $59.99)
Tusk Flywheel Puller 27 mm? (1179010002 $10.99)
Tusk Crankcase Splitter/Separator? (1177390001 $59.99)

All the tools you listed are nice to have and will make the job easier (except the flywheel puller, you NEED that no matter how you do the rest) but can be made or borrowed if need be. But if your time is worth much to you it may just be easier to order the tools and be done with it.

The "case splitter" I used is actually a ($600 or so) snap on wheel hub / bearing puller. So if you look around you might find something that will work too.