I ended up ordering the All Balls bearing kit including rear shock bearing. Now my questions are is it easy enough to use the threaded bar and socket trick or should I get a proper bearing driver tool thingy majig?
In other words can I take the 'Dodgy' route (ie threaded bar) or are the proper tools needed.
What about tips and hints on install? Im gonna heat and freeze the nessecary parts to make it easier. Pros and cons??? Thanks everyone and have a great day.... Trev
Linkage bearing replacement...
- KDXer
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Linkage bearing replacement...
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- motorider200
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The threaded rod aka "dodgy" method worked fine for me. Here is a pic of the stuff I used.
http://groups.msn.com/KDXRidersCommunit ... otoID=1377
I also used some sockets.
http://groups.msn.com/KDXRidersCommunit ... otoID=1377
I also used some sockets.
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Cheers for the pics mate. Just wondering what the L shaped curly thingys for? Oh and the bar with one nut whats he for? Thanks again champ.
Some nice air in the pic too, Wibby would be cringing.
Some nice air in the pic too, Wibby would be cringing.
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The 'dodgy' route would work fine.
A vise big enough to hold the knuckle and associated pressing pieces (sockets that fit the bill) works well, too.
Heat-n-freeze is OK...I've only used the freeze part of that scenario.
Make sure the bearing (in the case of the shock for example) is centered in the knuckle so the seals fit properly. That might take a little squeezing back and forth to get it right.
Of course, clean any new bearing well to remove the crap that is likely in there...and regrease with your preferred (Hydrosyn-70? from Hydrotex?) grease before you put the bearing in.
Grease the seals, too...right? Fill-em up!!
Take care with fullly greased seals that your pull rods fit properly. It's not hard to catch the edge of the fastener if you're not careful. Then it falls off that edge on the first bump and you have stuff knocking around....can end up with a ruined set of pull rods AND a ruined knuckle in the process.
I use anti-seize on the bearing shell on assembly to ease the stress on the aluminum body...and to give me some insurance when it comes to getting the thing out next time.
Cheers!
A vise big enough to hold the knuckle and associated pressing pieces (sockets that fit the bill) works well, too.
Heat-n-freeze is OK...I've only used the freeze part of that scenario.
Make sure the bearing (in the case of the shock for example) is centered in the knuckle so the seals fit properly. That might take a little squeezing back and forth to get it right.
Of course, clean any new bearing well to remove the crap that is likely in there...and regrease with your preferred (Hydrosyn-70? from Hydrotex?) grease before you put the bearing in.
Grease the seals, too...right? Fill-em up!!
Take care with fullly greased seals that your pull rods fit properly. It's not hard to catch the edge of the fastener if you're not careful. Then it falls off that edge on the first bump and you have stuff knocking around....can end up with a ruined set of pull rods AND a ruined knuckle in the process.
I use anti-seize on the bearing shell on assembly to ease the stress on the aluminum body...and to give me some insurance when it comes to getting the thing out next time.
Cheers!
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- motorider200
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The L shaped curly thing is in fact one of my moms plant hangers I found in the garage that I used as a spacer when pushing out the old bearings. The smaller rod serves the same purpose as the larger one only for smaller bearings. I don't remember if I used it or not.KAY DEE EXER wrote:Cheers for the pics mate. Just wondering what the L shaped curly thingys for? Oh and the bar with one nut whats he for? Thanks again champ.
Some nice air in the pic too, Wibby would be cringing.
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I get some descent air once in awhile!KAY DEE EXER wrote: Some nice air in the pic too, Wibby would be cringing.
It's kinda like free style 'cept I usually land in a different spot than the bike does!
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