KDXRIDER.NET

MadMax wrote:I have a question. Why did you powder coat the aluminum frame?

I don't care for the way the aluminum frames start to look after a few years when the elements get to them. So I had a couple ways to get around that.

1) polish the frame. But i'm not into constant polishing to keep it nice looking, and the area's you can't get to still start looking like crap.

2) have the frame ball burnished. This closes the pores of the aluminum so it resists weathering for a very long time. I've done this with the wheels on some of my street bikes and it looks great. I took the frame to my local shop and it was too large to fit into the burnishers tank.

3) Paint the frame. Most of the bikes i've bought new came with painted frames. The paint doesn't stay decent looking long, and if you don't run frame protectors that area only lasts a couple of rides before it's worn through.

4) Final answer. Powder coating. Looks good, long lasting (i had my klx powder coated in 1999 and it still cleans up nice), cheap and easy (hand the guys a frame and $200, they blast it, powder coat it, with an additional clear coat on top, pick it up in 2 weeks, and it looks great). Doesn't shine like a polished frame but still looks good. The guys i use have done at least 5 frames for me and they always block off all the threaded areas and anywhere bearings have to be pressed into.

I did have them ball burnish the swingarm since it was small enough for them to do.

So how far are you on the build now?

marrk_us wrote:

MadMax wrote:I have a question. Why did you powder coat the aluminum frame?

I don't care for the way the aluminum frames start to look after a few years when the elements get to them. So I had a couple ways to get around that.

1) polish the frame. But i'm not into constant polishing to keep it nice looking, and the area's you can't get to still start looking like crap.

2) have the frame ball burnished. This closes the pores of the aluminum so it resists weathering for a very long time. I've done this with the wheels on some of my street bikes and it looks great. I took the frame to my local shop and it was too large to fit into the burnishers tank.

3) Paint the frame. Most of the bikes i've bought new came with painted frames. The paint doesn't stay decent looking long, and if you don't run frame protectors that area only lasts a couple of rides before it's worn through.

4) Final answer. Powder coating. Looks good, long lasting (i had my klx powder coated in 1999 and it still cleans up nice), cheap and easy (hand the guys a frame and $200, they blast it, powder coat it, with an additional clear coat on top, pick it up in 2 weeks, and it looks great). Doesn't shine like a polished frame but still looks good. The guys i use have done at least 5 frames for me and they always block off all the threaded areas and anywhere bearings have to be pressed into.

I did have them ball burnish the swingarm since it was small enough for them to do.

That makes sense. Thanks for the answer.

Went to a snowmobile site called "Doo-Talk" where some one ran a series of tests. BG came out on top.

kawabunga wrote:Went to a snowmobile site called "Doo-Talk" where some one ran a series of tests. BG came out on top.

I'm not surprised. I was a mechanic before getting hired at USPS. I was already using BG 2 stroke oil in my kdx when I met the local BG saleman. Danny was a dirt biker and we became friends and rode together for a few years before he left Colorado to take over BG sales in Hawaii. He would always do demonstrations like this and other demonstrations of their different products. I've used their products for years in all my dirt and street bikes, and for 197,000 miles so far in my Jeeps engine (Amsoil with BG MOA), trans and transfer case, axles, and cooling system. No mechanical problems in any of them so far.

kdxtreme wrote:So how far are you on the build now?

I've got the forks mounted. The engine/kips is back together. Should have the engine in the frame this weekend. I'll post some pics once it's in, then i'll tackle the exhaust pipe/silencer mods.

Nice can't wait to see it.

Spent a few hours working on her this week. Got the rear mount drilled and reamed out. My swingarm is from a 2005 so I spent some time filing on it and test fitting. Everything has been pretty straight forward so far, test fit, see what rubs, file, refit.

CRF250x forks are now mounted and the engine/swingarm are in. Here are some shots.


Forks mounted


Top motor mount is next on the 'to do' list


Front sprocket swingarm pivot almost level. Test fit the front sprocket and alignment looks good.



May have to do 'a little' grinding. I'm sure the pipe and radiator fitting will take the most time ( and patience).


KX lever from the last build definitely won't work. Will either switch it out with the 220 or maybe fab one up from a cr125 kicker. I'll tackle that once I get the pipe/silencer figured out.


The choke is going to be a "by feel" deal, but no worse then on my KLX.



A couple of gratuitous rear end shots, w and w/o carb. Ran out of time but the air box might not be too bad. The shock spring is out getting the 90 kdx blue powder coating treatment.


So this is where we are so far.

I found a guy who makes shrould graphics for CR500AF conversions. He said he can make me some decals in the 1990 style letters that fade from black up to pink that say KDX200AF. Hopefully they turn out nice. DeCal works will make me some green outline back grounds for the white plactics and crf250x headlight. I figure its a new takeoff on this....

I don't know what I like better in the vintage pic--the KDX or those righteous Jams!

I'm leaning towards the Jams.

dfeckel wrote:I don't know what I like better in the vintage pic--the KDX or those righteous Jams!

I'm leaning towards the Jams.

Agreed. Did a quick google search for white kdx and thats one of a very few pics that came up. Didn't know weird al yankovic was a kdx'er.

I'm becoming extremely jealous. Seriously.

Hit a little snag today. Found out the crf shock won't work, bigger around then the 125 shock. Close but it wedges against the airbox. Thought about modding a crf250x subframe and airbox (it'd be really nice to have the easy access, water crossing friendly air filter box and rear fender with the built in tailight), but in the end I just ordered up a cr125 shock off ebay. Once it arrives and is revalved things should start moving along. Then we'll see what we can do about the airbox. It's a little "open" for any real water crossings.

What about molding the airbox so the shock fits? Or is it that bad?

factoryX wrote:What about molding the airbox so the shock fits? Or is it that bad?

Rubbing pretty bad, I have a 05 CR125 shock on the way. Didn't realize there was that much difference in spring diameters.

I am doing the same thing as you, but with a 2001 frame.

Just got the motor/swingarm finished and have a bit of concern about

the way the chain is gonna ride heavily on the rubber guard and angle

down to the c.s. sprocket.

I intend to run large dia. sprockets-14/52 to help this situation.

Any thoughts on this? Have others had an issue here?

Don't think it's going to be a problem. My c.s. is only slightly lower than the pivot point. Looks lower than it is in the pics because the swingarm is just hanging waiting for the shock to be done.

Think I was overtired when I wrote that last one. With shock installed, it looks OK.
My next issue is the airboot. Don't like the angle and size difference at the carburator junction. I think that the guys who just squeezed it all down with a hose clamp, are running borrowed time. Theres no way I'd trust that.
Since the front of the airbox is flat, maybe I could graft on a flat panel and adapt another boot, from a Kawasaki? I've never seen a "H" KDX boot in the flesh. Maybe?
I can cut , grind,file, and dent metal,but I,m at a loss when it comes to plastic rubber.
I agree, this airbox needs further waterproofing.

kawabunga wrote:My next issue is the airboot. Don't like the angle and size difference at the carburator junction. I think that the guys who just squeezed it all down with a hose clamp, are running borrowed time. Theres no way I'd trust that.
Since the front of the airbox is flat, maybe I could graft on a flat panel and adapt another boot, from a Kawasaki?

I had the same concerns. This is how I made a KDX boot fit a KX air box.

Your build looks really good.

Thanks Ted, for elaboration on an issue needing resolve.
I will pursue along these lines.

Sorry it took a while to get back to you (had to work this Sat.) I bought an air box off ebay, (2003) and the boot fits the my kdx carb nicely, even the angle was right. I know the 03 cr carb bore is 38mm (3 more then the kdx) but the inlets must be about the same diameter, it fits great, not too loose at all. I was curious so I checked Ron Ayers site to see if your 01 cr125 used the same boot. Not only does it not use the same boot, Ayers site listed like 6 different boots for the 03 cr123 and 3 "optional" carbs. Maybe an 03 boot cheap off ebay would be a good starting point and if need be follow Teds lead. He did a very nice job with his. It was just dumb luck my fell into place.