Re: Do I really need all these special suspension tools for the forks?
Posted: 10:48 pm Mar 06 2020
Sometimes a preview of the work to be done helps. Not the gold valves but the tear down procedure lol
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I think I'll try this somewhat janky way to do it the first time, cuz it doesn't sound too bad, and see how much time I spend screwing around. I'll have a much better idea of how much screwing around I need to do after doing the job just once. Yeah you're totally right about having the right tools not only making the job faster, but also the faster and easier a job is, with less reinventing-the-wheel involved, the more the work will actually get done on schedule. I'll bet people hardly ever actually change their fork (and shock) oil on schedule.KDXGarage wrote: ↑08:45 pm Mar 06 2020 I could use some tape and wire to pull the rod up and a wooden dowel to push it down. It does have to be cycled a few times to bleed the cartridge.
Again, the "proper" tools make it quick and easy, but it is tough to swallow just using them for a job that is not done often. On the plus side, once you have the "proper tools", it makes it easier to go ahead and change the fork oil on a regular schedule vs. just neglect it.
Nice that is a good video. It shows the value of the cartridge holder tool and how it's used to get the bottom fork cap off. Thanks man.Kdxfan4130 wrote: ↑10:48 pm Mar 06 2020 Sometimes a preview of the work to be done helps. Not the gold valves but the tear down procedure lol
Glad that is of value to help you out. Sometimes there’s shortcuts to avoid buying certain tools. For instance using tape all rolled up around the fork tube to install/ram home the fork seal instead of buying a fork seal installation tool. On a Sunday when the shops are all closed you have to make due.'03KDX200 wrote: ↑11:20 pm Mar 07 2020Nice that is a good video. It shows the value of the cartridge holder tool and how it's used to get the bottom fork cap off. Thanks man.Kdxfan4130 wrote: ↑10:48 pm Mar 06 2020 Sometimes a preview of the work to be done helps. Not the gold valves but the tear down procedure lol
You look like a guy that says “I work for the government” whenever you’re asked what you do for a livingKdxfan4130 wrote: ↑02:14 am Mar 08 2020Haha no not me, just copied that off you tube as it was a good reference.
Me a decade ago before the adelanto grand prix
That was enviro nazis trying in vain to stop the event from starting, delayed the start for about 90 minutes. I had blisters on both hands afterwards both ‘88 & ‘89 B2V earning dust collectors
If I told ya I’d have to keel ya! No man it’s just the haircut I swearkdxsully wrote: ↑08:05 am Mar 08 2020You look like a guy that says “I work for the government” whenever you’re asked what you do for a livingKdxfan4130 wrote: ↑02:14 am Mar 08 2020Haha no not me, just copied that off you tube as it was a good reference.
Me a decade ago before the adelanto grand prix
Hey one more dumb question: In an earlier reply you mentioned some nut on the bottom that is "peened over", that I should be careful to undo the peening before I attempt removal of the nut, thereby avoiding a gigantic headache. In this picture, can you point to the nut that has the peening?
What??? LAME! What were the enviro-Nazis concerned about exactly? Some motorcycle race? LOL yeah because those are so harmful to the environment. Also, what are cross ties and what are culverts?Kdxfan4130 wrote: ↑03:06 pm Mar 08 2020That was enviro nazis trying in vain to stop the event from starting, delayed the start for about 90 minutes. I had blisters on both hands afterwards both ‘88 & ‘89 B2V earning dust collectors
The enviro nuts were dead set on closing this race since it drew so many racers. Atvs were held to 200 entrants, not sure how many bikes were allowed. The enviro ppl closed this race before and it was allowed to return iirc in the early 80’s. Cross ties are like rail road rail wooden supports, culverts is like a drainage ditch it was a part of the race course everyone had to traverse through. Race was discontinued after ‘89 since no race course permit was approved after that. Now to piss off the enviros they put on a street legal off road 2day ride through that same area every year in November ‘LA2B2V’ you tube has a bunch of vids, folks riding adv bikes in areas you really shouldnt lots of crashing going on in the tougher spots. The real race was much tougher to finish in 5-6 hrs'03KDX200 wrote: ↑02:28 pm Mar 10 2020What??? LAME! What were the enviro-Nazis concerned about exactly? Some motorcycle race? LOL yeah because those are so harmful to the environment. Also, what are cross ties and what are culverts?Kdxfan4130 wrote: ↑03:06 pm Mar 08 2020That was enviro nazis trying in vain to stop the event from starting, delayed the start for about 90 minutes. I had blisters on both hands afterwards both ‘88 & ‘89 B2V earning dust collectors
KDXGarage wrote: ↑08:45 pm Mar 06 2020 Call FRP Offroad and see how much shipping is. The website says $25, but that is way too high. The tool is $30. I have one. It is great. He did a fine job on it. One side is for 1995+ and one side is for 1986 - 1992 KDX200 (have not tried it in older forks).
It will not work on 1991 - 1994 KDX250 or 1993 - 1994 KDX200.
If I could only buy one of those two tools, I would buy the FRP Offroad tool, assuming shipping is not sky high.
I could use some tape and wire to pull the rod up and a wooden dowel to push it down. It does have to be cycled a few times to bleed the cartridge.
Again, the "proper" tools make it quick and easy, but it is tough to swallow just using them for a job that is not done often. On the plus side, once you have the "proper tools", it makes it easier to go ahead and change the fork oil on a regular schedule vs. just neglect it.